DS rear suspension clunk
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Thread: DS rear suspension clunk

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default DS rear suspension clunk

    In a bid to remove the clunk I get when the DS raises on start up I've pulled some things apart
    I assume this is the culprit;

    Acting much like the knife edge in a 2cv suspension it has worn a small groove into the rod end. Can it be welded and shaped?
    Or is replacement my best option?

    Harley

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  2. #2
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    it usually leads to a "crack" on lifting when first started, then normal behaviour until the car drops again. If you do search some have tried using a die grinder to reshape the socket.

    This is what they originally looked like (this is the pushrod in my old ugly pink ID19)



    these are the ones from the dspecial parts car for comparison purposes, no doubt it did the "crack" as it lifted.



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    I have exactly that issue (one of a number of jobs to do). My question is "How much does it matter?" (aside from being annoying). Does it affect the performance or safety of the car? Presumably at some point, after much deterioration. But otherwise?

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    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    It will eventually fracture the ball. You can grind them smooth with a dremel too with a metal cutting ball shaped bit. Grinding is not always successful.

    Doing the Daffyduck dance with the Aussiefrogs app. wooohooo wooohooo wooohooo

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    After a bit more of a dig I found some severe scoring on the inside edges of the cups the ball sits in...

    Perhaps this also causes the "crack!"?

    Harley

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    Just dropped them off to an auto engineering shop I've used.
    He was surprised ti feel that the wear area is raised... he/one would expect the wear area to be lower...
    He's going to ask some colleges of his before he jumps in and machines it out.

    Harley

  7. #7
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    Harley,

    The raised 'lip' inside the ball seat is the cause of the 'cracking' sound. The 'wear' is the result of grease being washed out due to a duffed rubber dust shield. Use a small ball grinding tool on a power drill or Dremel and smooth out the raised edges. Those edges are the result of the rod end not moving smoothly against the ball bearing and jumping up or down, gouging the inside edge(s) of the ball seat.

    The 'ball' is a bog standard 5/8" ball bearing. You can smooth out the end of the suspension rod by using a new ball bearing and some grinding paste (like one would use for valve seating). Is a bit of work but with care you will get a nice, smooth, shiny surface. Put all back together with Extreme Pressure Grease (EP), fresh ball bearing and a new dust cover. Ligerex the dust cover tightly and you should be good to go.

    Steve

  8. #8
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    Thanks for that extra info Steve it's a lot clearer now.
    The engineer did suggest replacing the balls also.
    I've forwarded him the information so should have them back soon.

    Harley

    Via the future...

  9. #9
    DS
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    I have seen the cups that cracked into bits. They seem to be available as a new part like the ball.
    Citroen Car Club of New South Wales member.

    My Citroen ID21F can be seen here http://www.flickr.com/photos/frontdr...7605999522616/

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    On my ID19, the cups are non-removeable and non-replaceable and the front drivers side one has cracked through around the circumference with about a half inch long crack (around a fifth or a quarter of the circumference) about 2 mm wide. I have no idea what to do about this ( apart from crossing myself and putting it all back together). Any ideas based on experience welcome!

    The thought of sourcing and replacing the entire (alloy?) front suspension mounting unit is very daunting.

    Cheers leconte
    1962 Heidelberg ID19 "Axel"
    1965 Heidelberg ID19
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    DS
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    On my ID19, the cups are non-removeable and non-replaceable and the front drivers side one has cracked through around the circumference with about a half inch long crack (around a fifth or a quarter of the circumference) about 2 mm wide. I have no idea what to do about this ( apart from crossing myself and putting it all back together). Any ideas based on experience welcome!
    Yes, earlier cars have no removable cup. I know of one car where the area where the ball sits partly broke off (while the vehicle was en route) and caused rapid suspension loss. The rod flew out and disappeared somewhere on the motorway!
    Arm replacement is the fix.
    Citroen Car Club of New South Wales member.

    My Citroen ID21F can be seen here http://www.flickr.com/photos/frontdr...7605999522616/

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    For the later cars with separate ball seats ... The cup, ball and rod are all available as new parts for the rear suspensions, but the rods are fairly expensive for what they are. I think I'd look for good used rods if possible. The front rods are apparently not available new, so you want good used. The question you might pose about reworking the rod is to what degree the rod end is case hardened and whether it's worn through?

    For Leconte ... Looking at the parts lists, the hub and arm bearings look to have a lot in common with later cars, so it may well be possible to take even a late 5 stud arm and fit the single stud hub to it. Unfortunately, the rear arm bearing has bearing cups machined into the arms and the bearing housing, so there's a good chance of a wreck having grooves worn from the back and forth motion. For the front end, the easiest solution will be to change the whole half axle for a good one. The parts lists show a few changes to the bearing size etc., so it's going to depend on when your car was built as to what you have and can use as a replacement. The Slough parts list #466 has descriptions of differing parts and what makes them different so it's possibly quite helpful to you. You'd have to remove the top suspension arm to change just the cracked suspension lever. If the splines on the suspension arms are the same size (I don't know) you could possibly change to the later type lever with a separate ball cup. It seems the thread for the rollbar link carried on to later models. You'd want to check for yourself using the various parts books, but it would seem possible to change to having a separate cup. There are obviously a few old hands around who will know the differences with the early models and what you can use as a replacement.
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    David S,

    Thanks for the well thought out reply. I will check my manuals (thanks again Richo) and investigate. I hadn't thought of trying a later part, but for longevity it would certainly be better to have the removeable and replaceable ones. Prior to raising this I was thing of getting the crack welded up from the outside but was not sure how successful that would be. I have not made much progress with my ID19 over winter and have been extremely busy at work but plan to devote more time into it again soon, and re-assembly of the suspension is one of the next tasks. Oddly enough I have exercised my Ligarex kit for the very first time last weekend, but it was to shore up a heater hose (leaking) on my daughter's golf-iv, not the ID or GS. But ligarex looks great even on a VW

    Regards, Leconte
    1962 Heidelberg ID19 "Axel"
    1965 Heidelberg ID19
    half owner 1974 GS 1220 Convertisseur Break

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    I got the parts back from the engine builder.
    Very happy with the result.

    As I don't have any Ligerex I thought I was at a loss but I discovered these little beauties, cv joint bands...

    Unfortunately the battery was dead, even though I had the positive disconnected. ..
    So I'm yet to have tested if it worked!
    I still need to replace one of the small cup boots... one looks new and the other looks like Beirut!

    Harley

    Sent via the future...

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    Harley,
    Before you fit the whole lot back together, please, put a protective collar around the rubber suspension boot where you have put the CV joint band.
    The factory used a heavy cloth (rather than the usual rubber) to protect the rubber being squeezed, without adding much to the overall height.
    If you add too much to the overall height, where the boot is invaginated, it will rub against the strapping.

    Should you have already assembled the unit, simply remove the outer band and pull the boot back, remove the band and put the protective collar on. It will allow the boot to last longer.

    Hope this helps.

    cheers,
    richo

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    Last edited by richo; 8th December 2013 at 08:11 AM.

  16. #16
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    Hhhnmmm yes I did notice that Richo...
    I'll get on to it, the future is an amazing place indeed!

    Harley

    Sent via the future...

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    Ohh, btw, I reluctantly had to Google image "invaginated"... just to be sure...

    Harley

    Sent via the future...

  18. #18
    mnm
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    Hello Harley

    here is a pic of the cloth that was on my set up when I did mine... if that helps.


    Matthew

  19. #19
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    Thx Mathew,

    That's pre invaginated. ..

    Harley

    Sent via the future...

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