DS23 Handbrake Stuck
  • Register
  • Help
Page 1 of 2 12 Last
Results 1 to 25 of 29
Like Tree3Likes

Thread: DS23 Handbrake Stuck

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! ntr1972's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Hobart, Australia
    Posts
    315

    Default DS23 Handbrake Stuck

    Got a small wee problem. It's about the handbrake on my DS23 1974. It is stuck.

    Nicely parked in my driveway, but going nowhere fast. The release level just doesn't want to click like it normally does. Won't pull any further towards me to release.

    Advertisement


    Any ideas/discussion would be most helpful...

  2. #2
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    8,193

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ntr1972 View Post
    Got a small wee problem. It's about the handbrake on my DS23 1974. It is stuck.

    Nicely parked in my driveway, but going nowhere fast. The release level just doesn't want to click like it normally does. Won't pull any further towards me to release.

    Any ideas/discussion would be most helpful...
    Have you accidentally turned the lock mechanism? Small knurled screw on the left side of the handle.

    Cheers
    Chris
    Ronhic likes this.
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Dťesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Dťesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Dťesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine VIC
    Posts
    355

    Default

    This happened only recently on my 1960 French ID. I think it's the same mechanism as the later DS.
    Looking at the handbrake handle,you'll notice a small adjusting screw with a locknut. Undo the locknut and unscrew adjusting screw anti-clockwise. This should release it.
    It looks like this adjustment acts on the, for want of a better word, "grabber" that locks onto the curved shaft that holds the handbrake on. I hope this works for you. --- Michael

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    317

    Default

    If its not the adjusting screw mentioned above the pin that the release lever pivots on may have made a bid for freedom. I replaced mibe on the side of the road with a length of fence wire, still good 4yrs later ;-)

    Harley

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Dave Rogers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Frankston Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    263

    Default

    I suffered the same fate a few years back at a CCCV BBQ, a whole heap of cars were blocked further up the driveway as I was the last car in. Did finally mange to get it released, from within the engine bay, from memory, and was able to let the other cars out.
    The problem turned out to be the the bakelite trigger that had snapped at it pivot point within the tube of the handbrake lever. You can see the offending piece as the lower of the two in the photo below. The top piece is the new old stock item I was able to source locally. Der Franzoze probably has them in stock.
    DS23 Handbrake Stuck-img_1033.jpg
    The problem in replacing such a small piece is that the whole dashboard needs to be removed so that you can gain access to the nut that retains the bolt around which the hand break assembly pivots. This bolt protrudes into the cabin and is located in the space between the side wall and the driver's side (in Australia) air vent tube. See photo.
    DS23 Handbrake Stuck-img_1039-version-2.jpg
    Removing the dashboard is an effort in itself. I was sure there was a thread on it but an exhaustive search has not uncovered it, maybe it got lost in the crash, but I managed to do it by following my nose.
    DS23 Handbrake Stuck-img_1026.jpg
    Eventually you can get the whole hand break cabin assembly out and replace the trigger.
    DS23 Handbrake Stuck-img_1035.jpg
    Best of luck,
    Dave
    74/75 DS23 Pallas 5 Speed Carby

    83 2CV Charleston

    79 GSA
    03 Peugeot 406 Hdi
    01 Renault Scenic

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! ntr1972's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Hobart, Australia
    Posts
    315

    Default

    oh dear

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine VIC
    Posts
    355

    Default

    "Oh dear" what?
    You've had the ideas/discussion. Now I'm waiting to hear "what happened next?

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    North Brisbane
    Posts
    1,947

    Default

    I think he is say 'Oh dear' do I really have to take the whole dashboard out!!!!!
    I am sure any other suggestions will be gratefully accepted.
    I had the same reaction when the heater matrix in the Xantia started to leak and I found I needed to do the same exercise.

    Cheers,

    Ken W

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! ntr1972's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Hobart, Australia
    Posts
    315

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IDear View Post
    "Oh dear" what?
    You've had the ideas/discussion. Now I'm waiting to hear "what happened next?

    Sorry no update. Busy with work and family. Surely I won't have to take the dash out....

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9,806

    Default

    I'm not clear if this is a manual or an auto? The lockout on the handle and pictures are for the handbrake in a manual setup. The auto will have the pedal system like the BVH and the problem/cure would be different.
    Given the nature of the beast, you do need a working handbrake as you have no backup in the event of a total loss of hydraulics (no redundancy!). However, even with a broken pivot, you might be able to release it by looking at how the parts fit together in the attached diagram. Item 6 locks on the curved rod and the release arm moves it. Maybe, removing the spring on the small linkage between 6 and the arm might free it? If that will not work, you could slacken off the cable adjuster at the firewall and then release the cable at the arms at the calipers. The springs are rather strong though.

    DS23 Handbrake Stuck-dshbrake.jpg
    Last edited by David S; 20th September 2013 at 01:44 AM.

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    317

    Default

    Mine is now rooted...
    I've unstck it but rod (16) that sits in the little hole on the baker lite lever (4) which gets adjusted by the locking screw kept making a bid for freedom. ..
    So I looked harder. ..
    And this is what I found...

    So looks like dash out!
    ...

    Harley

    Sent via the future...

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    317

    Default

    I pulled the dash out... what a task! I'd say the handbrake was an afterthought. ..
    It was cracked worse than I realised.
    It's all out and on the bench ready for the hot metal glue gun

    Most of the bullet connectors where fused together via corrosion and I enjoyed that the choke cable needed to be undone at the carby and pulled right through :what:

    I've also removed the bearing for the steering column and given it a clean ready for some new grease.

    Lots of dust and grit around the air vents, it would be nice to have it sealed up better!

    Harley

    Sent via the future...

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Symar/ca/usa
    Posts
    607

    Default

    Hi Harley,

    Having been through this exact same problem with a LHD ID19B many years ago I would suggest trying to locate a decent used handle as opposed to either brazing/welding the duffed one. The area where they fail is very stressed. The metal is not very thick and heating with surrounding area with a torch to affect a repair, at least in the cases I have seen, only leads to a failure near the repaired area in somewhat short order.

    Frankly, at least here in the States, a lot of the hand operated ones were replaced by the foot operated units out of a Pallas model. They fit and are much more substantial in construction.

    Steve

  14. #14
    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Hobart, the other planet
    Posts
    1,445

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Citroenfan View Post
    Hi Harley,


    Frankly, at least here in the States, a lot of the hand operated ones were replaced by the foot operated units out of a Pallas model. They fit and are much more substantial in construction.

    Steve
    Steve,
    HERE in Australia, foot operated units are like hens teeth as we didn't have many late BVH equipped cars
    AND
    the brake operating cable for same is impossible to buy in the RHD version.

    Not to mention, the complete removal of the old unit and replacement is an odious task, especially on a RHD car.

    Harley, if you can find an unbroken donor unit for the hand operated lever, it would be a better solution.

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    317

    Default

    Ahh. Thanks for the info guys.
    I got excited about fitting a floor mounted e-brake, until the logistics of such a task where pointed out.

    I'll give the weld reinforce route a go, guided by my brother who works with all sorts of stressed metal fabrication.

    Cheers,

    Harley

    Sent via the future...

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Symar/ca/usa
    Posts
    607

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Harley View Post
    Ahh. Thanks for the info guys.
    I got excited about fitting a floor mounted e-brake, until the logistics of such a task where pointed out.

    I'll give the weld reinforce route a go, guided by my brother who works with all sorts of stressed metal fabrication.

    Cheers,

    Harley

    Sent via the future...
    Harley,

    Just as an aside - have seen ones repaired by quite knowledgeable metal people that failed within a year or so. Will keep various body parts crossed tightly that you don't suffer the same problem . In all seriousness I would really suggest you try sorting out a decent used one and repair/refurbish the one in the car as a last resort.

    Richo - You Aussies keep coming up with some of the lamest excuses for not doing things right to start with . The length of the cable issue is a new one even for you...........

    Steve

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    317

    Default

    As they say in Australia, actually on Australia day
    "Maaaate, no worise!"

    2mm plate stitched full length, either side of the weakened area plus a simple cross brace will see it far into the future, currently where I am sending this message from...

    If 2mm was good enough for the citroen 2cv PO chassis reinforcement http://www.cats-citroen.net/citroen_atypes/po2x2.htmlI reckon it will hold my strong arm attempts!

    Harley

    Sent via the future...

  18. #18
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    San Diego, California, USA
    Posts
    3,535

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Harley View Post
    As they say in Australia, actually on Australia day
    "Maaaate, no worise!"

    2mm plate stitched full length, either side of the weakened area plus a simple cross brace will see it far into the future, currently where I am sending this message from...

    If 2mm was good enough for the citroen 2cv PO chassis reinforcement Cats CitroŽn Net A-type P.O.I reckon it will hold my strong arm attempts!

    Harley

    Sent via the future...
    That page makes me think of Jeroen. I never personally met him, but he always seemed like such a cool dude. Sorry he's gone....
    addo likes this.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  19. #19
    UFO
    UFO is offline
    CitroŽn Tragic UFO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Gerringong, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    9,734

    Default

    Fitting a foot park brake in a manual RHD D would be almost impossible or at least interesting when you're trying to clutch without braking!
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

  20. #20
    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Hobart, the other planet
    Posts
    1,445

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by UFO View Post
    Fitting a foot park brake in a manual RHD D would be almost impossible or at least interesting when you're trying to clutch without braking!
    Correct Craig.
    There being considerably less real estate in the RH floor area.
    Not experienced or factored by the frothing quick shooters on the wrong side of the road.

  21. #21
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Symar/ca/usa
    Posts
    607

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by richo View Post
    Correct Craig.
    There being considerably less real estate in the RH floor area.
    Not experienced or factored by the frothing quick shooters on the wrong side of the road.

    Oh come on - that is how one drives fast in a D anyway - shift and brake at the same time.........And with small feet the problem should not exist to begin with .

    On a more serious note - do hope the repair works. Have seen it done that way before - where they failed was along one of the weld lines - not where the original separation occurred. There is a lot of flexing of the metal in that area when the parking brakes are applies - the reason some of the OEM units failed was due to a less than smooth finish from the stamping of the metal at the stressed point. At least mine and a couple that I have replaced for others suffered from that condition.

    Steve

  22. #22
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    317

    Default

    I shaped and welded a 2mm plate on one side, recessed the pin.

    Much stronger than original but I really should do the other side while it is out ...
    With not enough hours left in the year I laid a few seams over the opposite side.

    I then reinforced the edges that fatigue where the tears start, lots of heat and penetration later...

    It ain't the prettiest thing but I made sure the surface that can be seen is neat.
    Some paint and refit and it will last the life of the car

    Harley

    Sent via the future...

  23. #23
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    877

    Default

    M.Steve,

    Believe me there is NO room on the drivers footwell of a RHD car to fit a pendant pedal in a gearstick car.. The clutch pedal already occupies the airspace and there is just enough room to the left of the brake button housing to allow a fully depressed clutch pedal. In itself the clutch pedal arc is awkward in the way it arcs and the pedal pad itself is curved to allow a more natural angle to the drivers left foot. Someone wearing wide shoes or boots is likely to scrape the firewall or get the footwear jammed against the brake button housing at full depress of the clutch pedal. Perhaps I should have begun with Obama's popular phrase " Make no mistake" ...

  24. #24
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    877

    Default

    M. Harley, while you are at this stage make sure the gadget that actually bites on the curved locking arm is not worn and allows the full grip possible. These are not ratcheted devices ( as you have no doubt observed ) and rely on a "knife edge " grip to keep the handbrake engaged. To lubricate the locking surface is a no no too as it encourages the engaging slide but not the actual locking grip.

  25. #25
    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA USA
    Posts
    1,955

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by richo View Post
    Correct Craig.
    There being considerably less real estate in the RH floor area.
    Not experienced or factored by the frothing quick shooters on the wrong side of the road.
    While he is at it, I think he should install a Weber carb on his 2cv. Probably lots of advice available on how to do that.

    Via the aussiefrogs App

Page 1 of 2 12 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •