Citroen CX Air Cond Options - Page 4
  • Register
  • Help
Page 4 of 5 First 12345 Last
Results 76 to 100 of 101
Like Tree22Likes

Thread: Citroen CX Air Cond Options

  1. #76
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Melbourne / Caulfield
    Posts
    15,894

    Default

    A question for the technical minded: Ive noticed the return line t-piece really freezes over.
    Wrap in some self amalgamating cork tape or insulate it with some 10mm armorflex and tape it up.

    Insulflex Cork Tape - Actrol

    Advertisement


    A little local freeze is nothing to be concerned about, simply cold refrigerant cooling the fitting and condensing/ freezing the moisture.

    If,however the "freeze line" extends to the evaporator tx valve inlet, there could be TX sizing issues or insufficient airflow through the coil to provide sufficient heat load to raise the coil temperature.
    Last edited by robmac; 22nd November 2015 at 11:18 AM.
    Mutual Respect is Contagious


  2. #77
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    canberra...
    Posts
    8,417

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Is the motor you fitted designed to sit stalled indefinitely the crazy design of that motor means it'll drive to the end of the flaps travel then sit there stalled permanently until you change the flap, then it'll drive to the other end of the gear and sit permanently stalled there Crazy design !
    Yes, this is still the common practice... Combine it with dodgy little plastic gears and then bury them under the dash so its a full day's job to replace them. I replace the failed one in the Reno 21 with the vacuum pod from a Fuego and a little vacuum switch and relay from a Fuego emission control system - I didnt want to pull the dash out again...

  3. #78
    Fellow Frogger! Jinandfonic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Chermside West Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    417

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    Wrap in some self amalgamating cork tape or insulate it with some 10mm armorflex and tape it up.

    Insulflex Cork Tape - Actrol

    A little local freeze is nothing to be concerned about, simply cold refrigerant cooling the fitting and condensing/ freezing the moisture.

    If,however the "freeze line" extends to the evaporator tx valve inlet, there could be TX sizing issues or insufficient airflow through the coil to provide sufficient heat load to raise the coil temperature.
    Thanks Rob. Do you mean the evaporator coil? I'm not concerned about the freezing over of the joins just the waste of chilled energy. The bigger the condenser the better the a/c performance, more cooling area the cooler the result, is that correct? Therefore the chilling of the high pressure line? The trouble with a CX is at the lights, idle speed drops, Compressor circulation reduces pressure at the Tx valve. The under bonnet temperature also increases and the high line running under car picks up more road & exhaust heat. It's as though the process goes on hold, or does it mean I need more gas?
    Citroen C5 II manual '05; C4 Exculsive '07; Citroen CX2200 Pallas '76; CX2400 C-matic Pallas '78

  4. #79
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Melbourne / Caulfield
    Posts
    15,894

    Default

    Do you mean the evaporator coil?
    Yes indirectly, but the symptoms, ie freezing, are likely to show on the liquid line leading into the TX valve.

    The bigger the condenser the better the a/c performance, more cooling area the cooler the result, is that correct?
    Generally yes, because the evaporator gives back the heat collected from the evaporators to the atmosphere. So the better it loses heat the lower the pressure of refrigerant and therefore the lower head pressure of compressor. Thus improving efficiency of the entire cycle.

    does it mean I need more gas?
    Probably not. Because aircon refrigerant charge is pretty flexible. The system has a receiver (dryer).The receiver tends to collect liquid refrigerant ready to metered out by the Tx valve, So provided the supply the TX valve is 100 % liquid then charge is OK.

    In days gone by, the site glass was used to determine charge - no bubbles =correct charge - the was with R12, however all other refrigerants foam so you can't use this method anymore. If you are getting adequate cooling and sensible hi side and lo side pressures I'd believe these.

    Have to say I'm not too sure about your theories about heat loss/ gain in engine refrigeration lines.

    Have a read up on basic refrigeration principles. These notes cover the subject fundamentals quite well.

    Automotive air conditioning training manual
    Jinandfonic likes this.
    Mutual Respect is Contagious


  5. #80
    Fellow Frogger! meinkiev's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Kenya, Africa; Kiev, Ukraine, and Albury, NSW
    Posts
    122

    Default

    Is this a dual system Greg?
    Mine is working well as an original single system, although the gas (standard) has been slowly leaking out over the year. Since I only drive it a few months of the year when I return home, I am quite pleased with it.

    I was amazed when I was home in August to October to do some serious distance in it to find it is returning 5.55 lts./ 100 km. on the freeway. It had an issue with pump timing and fueling, and so I took it to diesel mechanic again, and luckily for me he had a new employee who came form Portugal and had worked on CX diesels in France for many years. He adjusted the fuel setting and re-timed it (simply by ear and nose) and now it is going really good. Heaps of power and so economical. Of course around town it is not so fuel efficient. I did over 5,000 k's in a few weeks while I was home.
    Shane

  6. #81
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,306

    Default

    Mine is the factory dual system. Interestingly the front evaporator, even though small compared to modern cars is bigger than the one in the rear unit. My 2 bobs worth it is probably the correct size given the poor airflow out of the front system. Maybe it was designed that way?
    Mine

    CX Prestige
    Toyota Prius

    In the family

    Xantia SX

  7. #82
    Fellow Frogger! Jinandfonic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Chermside West Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    417

    Default

    [QUOTE=meinkiev;1396689]Is this a dual system Greg?
    Mine is working well as an original single system, although the gas (standard) has been slowly leaking out over the year. Since I only drive it a few months of the year when I return home, I am quite pleased with it.

    I agree. A single system charged on Hychill (cools quicker than r134a) should be fine for most of the year and would advise against installing a rear system like I did (difficulty, expense, load on system & extra weight) as it's ultimately about getting cold air on your face, although a Prestige or wagon would require both for sure.
    The other safety benefit of the single system up front on Hychill is the Tx valve/block & all pipe work etc is on the engine bay side and the older style copper evaporators least likely to leak. If there was a sudden gas discharge it would more likely dissipate into the engine area quickly and therefore into the atmosphere.
    With the rear system there is more gas involved, any rear leaks would be contained in the cabin & boot area meaning it could explode!
    The best compromise is for hot climates, installing the under dash system in the glove box working with the original integrated system. Not as pretty yet more efficient as less pipe work, better oil circulation and gets to passengers where it is appreciated most; then use r134a for a lack of anxiety😉
    Citroen C5 II manual '05; C4 Exculsive '07; Citroen CX2200 Pallas '76; CX2400 C-matic Pallas '78

  8. #83
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    7,792

    Icon3

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg C View Post
    When I went to recharge the Air-conditioning I found a guy who will fill with Hychill. When we were regassing it, noted some small bubbles appearing between the front plate and body of the compressor. We have found the leak. That was about 6 months ago and the system worked surprising well even if the gas level was slowly falling, but time to fix properly. Sanden do a new compressor that is a drop in replacement for the SD508 in the car, but Jason suggested why don't you get the original overhauled and he knows a guy that does it. His reasoning was, longer guarantee with a guy you know and probably cheaper. I liked the idea on the basis of not throwing anything away if it still works or can be fixed. Job was completed a few weeks ago, cost $400 to overhaul the compressor and then degassed with R134A. First impressions are good, you can't hear the compressor anymore and air coming out the vents is cold.

    Still it needed a good test. Yesterday was predicted to hit 41C in Sydney, so the perfect day to take the CX to work and test the A/C. Parked the car where I thought it would be in shade in the afternoon, but when I returned in the afternoon to drive home at was dappled shade. Weatherzone listed the temp at Sydney airport, not far from work at 42.4C. Get all fans to max and the thermostat right around to trigger recirculation. After about 3km the interior is liveable and after about 10km comfortable. Problem is we are travelling south and the sun is pouring in on the drivers side. When we turn to the west things improve although an Aethermic windscreen would have helped. I think a CX Prestige has more window area on the side than the front. Traffic was heavy which didn't help. Compared to the Prius which did the same job the day before in 37C heat. The two took the same distance to get the inside liveable, but it was able to pull the temp down a bit more. It has the advantage of much less traffic on its drive, less volume to cool and compressor speed independent of vehicle/ engine speed.

    Therefore I would say the CX passed its test with flying colours
    Hi Greg,

    I found this product when searching for something else but thought it may fit in with this thread. . .
    Home of clearplex - ClearPlex Australia

    This is a clear film that is applied to the exterior of a windscreen, ostensibly to protect the glass from stone damage etc., but also claims to reduce heat and uv transfer through the glass. I can't find a data sheet to determine how effective the heat protection is but until someone makes a batch of thermal screens for the CX this may offer a solution?

    It is being sold and installed in Australia so I presume it complies with the required Australian regulations



    Cheers
    Chris
    Jinandfonic likes this.
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

  9. #84
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    15,349

    Default

    [QUOTE=Jinandfonic;1396730]
    Quote Originally Posted by meinkiev View Post
    Is this a dual system Greg?
    Mine is working well as an original single system, although the gas (standard) has been slowly leaking out over the year. Since I only drive it a few months of the year when I return home, I am quite pleased with it.

    I agree. A single system charged on Hychill (cools quicker than r134a) should be fine for most of the year and would advise against installing a rear system like I did (difficulty, expense, load on system & extra weight) as it's ultimately about getting cold air on your face, although a Prestige or wagon would require both for sure.
    The other safety benefit of the single system up front on Hychill is the Tx valve/block & all pipe work etc is on the engine bay side and the older style copper evaporators least likely to leak. If there was a sudden gas discharge it would more likely dissipate into the engine area quickly and therefore into the atmosphere.
    With the rear system there is more gas involved, any rear leaks would be contained in the cabin & boot area meaning it could explode!
    The best compromise is for hot climates, installing the under dash system in the glove box working with the original integrated system. Not as pretty yet more efficient as less pipe work, better oil circulation and gets to passengers where it is appreciated most; then use r134a for a lack of anxiety��
    Is your CX an early car with the verticle fan housing In my experience the later cars are hopeless. The A/C is only good for cooling the gearstick. A cold breeze on your face is impossible as the fans don't blow that hard

    The rear system is the only way to get cold air into the car, it weighs nothing, so don't worry about extra weight. It does freeze the necks and heads of the rear seat passengers. Mine can freeze the lower portion of the back window leaving ice on it

    It is still way to hot to travel in, especially for my wife if driving into the direct sun. It *needs* an athermic windscreen. I think the prestige will be much cooler to travel in. The wagons were always much cooler to travel in than the sedans too. I think the extra "air space" inside the cabin must help.

    Tinting the windows with a quality tint helps far more than a working front A/C system IMO

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  10. #85
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Moree NSW Australia
    Posts
    53

    Default

    I have an old CX with aircon instead of glove box. It looks cool but you then don't have a glove box. That may not be a problem as it's tiny anyway. Peterbuc
    Jinandfonic likes this.

  11. #86
    Fellow Frogger! meinkiev's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Kenya, Africa; Kiev, Ukraine, and Albury, NSW
    Posts
    122

    Default

    [QUOTE=DoubleChevron;1396769]
    Quote Originally Posted by Jinandfonic View Post

    Is your CX an early car with the verticle fan housing In my experience the later cars are hopeless. The A/C is only good for cooling the gearstick. A cold breeze on your face is impossible as the fans don't blow that hard

    It *needs* an athermic windscreen.

    Tinting the windows with a quality tint helps far more than a working front A/C system IMO
    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Shane, mine is a 1985 CX 25 DTR Turbo, with a standard A/C. I suppose it has a vertical fan housing, but not sure. I think it is one of the last of the Series I cars. I did the same insulation job as you did, and I have the very best Ceramic tinting, which is better than most of the older tint films. I am running 134a gas, but may change to HiChill next time.

    Incidentally, I saw this Yuotube on a different clear tint (I think it is internal film) that claims to prevent a lot of heat entering:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPVhUJ3x1iM
    Shane

  12. #87
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Surrey, UK
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Hi All

    Just wanted to add my two penneth. If anyone happens to want to add AC to a Safari, this is where we ended up putting it, in the rear raised roof section, just before the back. It's an American system, that's usually found in mini buses, so will make the CX like a floating freezer, plus it heats too. We wanted to put the system where the spare tyre is, but there's simply no room behind the dashboard for all the new pipes!! The photos are from a while ago, so the car's been put back together now and is about to be painted, I'll add more photos when I have them, she's due to be ready by summer 2016.

    Cheers from the UK - Justin


    Citroen CX Air Cond Options-p1070267.jpgCitroen CX Air Cond Options-p1070268-1.jpgCitroen CX Air Cond Options-p1070266.jpg
    Jinandfonic likes this.

  13. #88
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,306

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by meinkiev View Post

    Shane, mine is a 1985 CX 25 DTR Turbo, with a standard A/C. I suppose it has a vertical fan housing, but not sure.
    Yours has the Behr heater unit, early CXs (before 1978) had the Sofica unit. Having owned cars with both heater units, I'd say the differences are marginal at best, the Behr unit was meant to be an improvement and probably is (marginally)
    Mine

    CX Prestige
    Toyota Prius

    In the family

    Xantia SX

  14. #89
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Glasgow
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Hi, I hope you don't mind my resurrecting this thread. There seems to be a few more people on here with experience of the subject than anywhere else I've found - AC being more essential in your part of the world.

    I have a late CX GTi T2 with factory AC. I live in Scotland, so it's not so crucial to have it blowing icy blasts; I would like it to work, though, especially as we're taking the car to France for our honeymoon in September.

    I fitted a new condenser, a recon compressor and replaced all the pipework with really high-quality custom-made jobs.

    Took it to an AC specialist near where I used to live in London a couple of years ago; he tested the system for leaks, gassed it up (with R134, I think) and it actually blew cold all the way home. Then never again. Then I moved to Glasgow.

    I think the main trouble is the receiver/drier is shot - it looks like the orginal from 90/91.

    So, my main question is, in the event I can't find an exact OE-spec receiver/drier, can I use another, EG: for an early 2.1 XM? Looking at pics, it looks to have the same connections and is more-or-less the same size. Will it work?

    Thanks in advance - all advice gratefully received.

  15. #90
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Melbourne / Caulfield
    Posts
    15,894

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisH10 View Post
    Hi, I hope you don't mind my resurrecting this thread. There seems to be a few more people on here with experience of the subject than anywhere else I've found - AC being more essential in your part of the world.

    I have a late CX GTi T2 with factory AC. I live in Scotland, so it's not so crucial to have it blowing icy blasts; I would like it to work, though, especially as we're taking the car to France for our honeymoon in September.

    I fitted a new condenser, a recon compressor and replaced all the pipework with really high-quality custom-made jobs.

    Took it to an AC specialist near where I used to live in London a couple of years ago; he tested the system for leaks, gassed it up (with R134, I think) and it actually blew cold all the way home. Then never again. Then I moved to Glasgow.

    I think the main trouble is the receiver/drier is shot - it looks like the orginal from 90/91.

    So, my main question is, in the event I can't find an exact OE-spec receiver/drier, can I use another, EG: for an early 2.1 XM? Looking at pics, it looks to have the same connections and is more-or-less the same size. Will it work?

    Thanks in advance - all advice gratefully received.
    Receiver dryers are pretty forgiving as to substitution.

    But I would question your diagnosis. There is nothing in R/D to fail. It's a steel flask with some desiccant pellets in it. And I've new seen nor heard of a R/D blocking.

    Sudden failure of system is often loss of refrigerant related, or an electrical issue which stops the compressor clutch from engaging.
    The hi/lo pressure switch , ie low refrigerant sensed will do this.

    I would take it back to the original refurbish company and ask them to diagnose the fault.
    Mutual Respect is Contagious


  16. #91
    Fellow Frogger! JAJEA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Essendon
    Posts
    500

    Default

    Agreed with Robmac, easy stuff first. Fundamental to determine that the compressor actually works when AC switched on. There is an electromagnetic clutch within the drive pulley and if that loses power - no AC. Easy to eliminate this possible fault. When switched on, does the compressor "compress". That is, does it rotate.

    Regards,

    John

    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    Receiver dryers are pretty forgiving as to substitution.

    But I would question your diagnosis. There is nothing in R/D to fail. It's a steel flask with some desiccant pellets in it. And I've new seen nor heard of a R/D blocking.

    Sudden failure of system is often loss of refrigerant related, or an electrical issue which stops the compressor clutch from engaging.
    The hi/lo pressure switch , ie low refrigerant sensed will do this.

    I would take it back to the original refurbish company and ask them to diagnose the fault.

  17. #92
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    15,349

    Default

    I'm betting it was never leak free... so the refrigerant leaked away within a few hours of it being regassed.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    robmac and UFO like this.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  18. #93
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Crows Nest, Queensland
    Posts
    129

    Default

    A simple thing I did when I owned a 1980 5 speed CX Safari (which I converted to a Familiale courtesy of a set of seats from a UK wrecker) was to rewire the recycle part of the system. On that model, recycle of the air in the vehicle was achieved by moving the fan lever to the rearmost position. However, then there was no control over the fan speed. I obtained an A/C on/off switch and placed it in a spare switch hole in the rear of the console. I disconnected the wiring that was activated by moving the fan switch to the rearmost position, and with a relay, connected it to the new switch. This meant that I could have the system on recycle and control the fan speed. Once the cabin was cooled, I simply switched back to outside air and the system worked quite satisfactorily. If the ambient temperature was really hot, I just left it on recirculate.
    Cheers, Robin

  19. #94
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    15,349

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Robin Hoffmann View Post
    A simple thing I did when I owned a 1980 5 speed CX Safari (which I converted to a Familiale courtesy of a set of seats from a UK wrecker) was to rewire the recycle part of the system. On that model, recycle of the air in the vehicle was achieved by moving the fan lever to the rearmost position. However, then there was no control over the fan speed. I obtained an A/C on/off switch and placed it in a spare switch hole in the rear of the console. I disconnected the wiring that was activated by moving the fan switch to the rearmost position, and with a relay, connected it to the new switch. This meant that I could have the system on recycle and control the fan speed. Once the cabin was cooled, I simply switched back to outside air and the system worked quite satisfactorily. If the ambient temperature was really hot, I just left it on recirculate.
    Cheers, Robin
    What is this "Once the cabin was cooled" ................... Did you park the car in a big drive in freezer or something
    UFO and JohnW like this.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  20. #95
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Crows Nest, Queensland
    Posts
    129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    What is this "Once the cabin was cooled" ................... Did you park the car in a big drive in freezer or something
    Well if you want icicles hanging off your beard ......
    Anytime we thought the A/C wasn't doing anything for temperature reduction, we just turned it off for a few minutes. Sure it wasn't up to the same standard as modern systems, but it was one helluva lot bet than none!!

  21. #96
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Glasgow
    Posts
    2

    Default

    All good advice; thanks! I'm going to replace the drier anyway and have the rest of the system checked over. Fingers crossed.

  22. #97
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    15,349

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisH10 View Post
    All good advice; thanks! I'm going to replace the drier anyway and have the rest of the system checked over. Fingers crossed.
    Can you put a couple of hundred PSI of nitrogen in it overnight and see if it leaks down Do you own a sphere regasser ? I modified mine to put nitrogen into A/C systems

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  23. #98
    Tadpole Edwin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Quick question - does anyone know how much R134A refrigerant a dual-evaporator system requires? The only information I've been able to find is from an early workshop manual, which specifies 1kg of R12 (presumably for a single-evaporator system).

  24. #99
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    15,349

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Edwin View Post
    Quick question - does anyone know how much R134A refrigerant a dual-evaporator system requires? The only information I've been able to find is from an early workshop manual, which specifies 1kg of R12 (presumably for a single-evaporator system).
    I doubt that is recorded anywhere. There all aftermarket dealer fitted systems aren't they
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  25. #100
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Camperdown 3260 Australia
    Posts
    2,614

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    I doubt that is recorded anywhere. There all aftermarket dealer fitted systems aren't they
    I have an early single system that I have gassed with Hychill-30. The canister is 450grams. I would therefore suggest that two of these canisters would be needed for a dual system.
    Last edited by gerrypro; 6th November 2017 at 08:05 AM.
    Cheers Gerry

Page 4 of 5 First 12345 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •