SOLEX 34PBIC adjustment
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    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
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    Default SOLEX 34PBIC adjustment

    Hello, I forgot to mention. I also played with carburettor. I turned 2 screws one I think for the amount of petrol and the other one is idle speed.

    Is the anyone who can tell me how to adjust this thing? Or do you have specific manual for this? Now I have stuffed it up so I am thinking to buy repair kit to replace all the gasket. But I need to know how to adjust.

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    Thank you.

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    Ashtray Polisher donat's Avatar
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    I didn't know your car was still running as I thought you'd snapped the timing chain.

    You might find some useful information here:

    http://abarth-e-co.wikispaces.com/fi...+%2B+B+D-I.pdf
    1972 SM
    1989 BX 16 Valve

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    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
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    I went to the Manuals "sticky"
    Looked at the last post.
    Clicked on the link, read the page, looked for the appropriate manual (472 ID19) and......


    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/txhoyw2gqvc8lau/LnhQmqmhRh

    Now, look at plate 26 and operation ID142-1 work on the carburettor Solex 34 PBIC
    All in English.

    Hope this helps.

    DOWNLOAD the manual, save it to your hard drive, it will be there forever!

    Alternately, I have a factory manual for sale, on paper, the original thing! Find my post on Manuals For Sale.

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    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by donat View Post
    I didn't know your car was still running as I thought you'd snapped the timing chain.

    You might find some useful information here:

    http://abarth-e-co.wikispaces.com/fi...+%2B+B+D-I.pdf
    Thanks for the link but I saw this already nothing about adjusting......
    No I have not snapped chain yet.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richo View Post
    I went to the Manuals "sticky"
    Looked at the last post.
    Clicked on the link, read the page, looked for the appropriate manual (472 ID19) and......


    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/txhoyw2gqvc8lau/LnhQmqmhRh

    Now, look at plate 26 and operation ID142-1 work on the carburettor Solex 34 PBIC
    All in English.

    Hope this helps.

    DOWNLOAD the manual, save it to your hard drive, it will be there forever!

    Alternately, I have a factory manual for sale, on paper, the original thing! Find my post on Manuals For Sale.
    Thanks Richo I have factory manual. It is not detail though... It is just saying turn (29) until motor run smoothly. And I can see the chart with many numbers for particular adjustment. What does those number mean?

  6. #6
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    There's is only one adjustment on the carby itself from memory. Idle mixture adjustment. The other screw your looking at is idle speed, it's just adjusting the stop point of the accelerator spindal (have a look, and you'll see what I mean). I just set them by ear... So it idles evenly, but doesn't lean out at low throttle settings.

    worn throttle spindals, and warped carby bases may make adjustment "interesting".

    seeya
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

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    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by caparobertsan View Post
    Thanks Richo I have factory manual. It is not detail though... It is just saying turn (29) until motor run smoothly. And I can see the chart with many numbers for particular adjustment. What does those number mean?
    The factory manual and Shane are correct, simple adjustment only. There's no other detail. Follow the instructions and you should have a result, provided the carby is clean with no obstructions.
    Of course, as Shane suggests, if the throttle spindle or body is worn and the base warped, then those issues require attention to achieve a working result.

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    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    There's is only one adjustment on the carby itself from memory. Idle mixture adjustment. The other screw your looking at is idle speed, it's just adjusting the stop point of the accelerator spindal (have a look, and you'll see what I mean). I just set them by ear... So it idles evenly, but doesn't lean out at low throttle settings.

    worn throttle spindals, and warped carby bases may make adjustment "interesting".

    seeya
    Shane L.
    Thanks Shane. That sound easy. But Question is ....Should I pull it out and overhaul it or NOT. Car is running fine. Because I touched It is not starting like before( One crank would start engine strait away! like a modern car.). I enjoyed overhauling height corrector so I am thinking that would a fun. But there are many brass bolts around I can see... I wonder there are adjustment for them...??

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    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richo View Post
    The factory manual and Shane are correct, simple adjustment only. There's no other detail. Follow the instructions and you should have a result, provided the carby is clean with no obstructions.
    Of course, as Shane suggests, if the throttle spindle or body is worn and the base warped, then those issues require attention to achieve a working result.
    Thanks Richo I will do my best . Will overhauling of Carby benefit or increase HP/efficiency and response of ID19 motor?

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    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by caparobertsan View Post
    Thanks Richo I will do my best . Will overhauling of Carby benefit or increase HP/efficiency and response of ID19 motor?
    Not to any degree you are likely to notice. Slightly improved fuel economy, depends on the condition of the unit now.

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    1000+ Posts HONG KONG PUGGY's Avatar
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    If after fiddling with that screw, it won't run very well. With the engine off, try turning the screw all the way in lightly, then back out about 1&1/2 turns. This is usually a good static point to start from for an idle mixture.

    When you have it set to that and you can get it running, if it is running OK, try sliding a piece of paper over the top of the carby..if you get close to 60% or so, and then it starts to stall, the mixture is pretty close to perfect.
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    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HONG KONG PUGGY View Post
    If after fiddling with that screw, it won't run very well. With the engine off, try turning the screw all the way in lightly, then back out about 1&1/2 turns. This is usually a good static point to start from for an idle mixture.

    When you have it set to that and you can get it running, if it is running OK, try sliding a piece of paper over the top of the carby..if you get close to 60% or so, and then it starts to stall, the mixture is pretty close to perfect.
    Hello, Thanks for the tip. So you mean to remove the air intake Lpipe and put paper on to to black the air and cover the inatke about 60% and motor will stall?

  13. #13
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    if your messing with the carby.... look down the throat of it ... see the air jet you can unscrew there ... DON'T TOUCH IT ... IT WILL SNAP OFF .... This is obviously only if someone hasnt' already snapped it off for you

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    if your messing with the carby.... look down the throat of it ... see the air jet you can unscrew there ... DON'T TOUCH IT ... IT WILL SNAP OFF .... This is obviously only if someone hasnt' already snapped it off for you

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    So I can see the nozzle when I remove the L Pipe? I have never played with any car so this is my first Carby....

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    Ashtray Polisher donat's Avatar
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    Kaz, I'd be curious to know what fuel economy you do get on your ID compared to mine.
    1972 SM
    1989 BX 16 Valve

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    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by donat View Post
    Kaz, I'd be curious to know what fuel economy you do get on your ID compared to mine.
    To be honest I don't know. Because fuel tank float is melted or sinking( I put empty loctite soft plastic bottle) not reading accurate. Original cork had sucked petrol and sank. I have not driven a lot as I am scared if something might blow up.
    But it is economical than my 3.2liter car. Does your car smell inside ? I mean does your clothing smell like car( petrol, exhaust fume, oil burning etc.....) I know there is a big gap around steering wheel shaft.

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    Ashtray Polisher donat's Avatar
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    My fuel gauge isn't the most reliable either and that's why I keep a log on my iphone - I put how much I've put in to fill it and at what mileage. I average around 9-10l/100km. My car has that brake fluid/old plastic smell which isn't too off-putting. My clothes smell more like nicotine than anything else.
    1972 SM
    1989 BX 16 Valve

  18. #18
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by caparobertsan View Post
    To be honest I don't know. Because fuel tank float is melted or sinking( I put empty loctite soft plastic bottle) not reading accurate. Original cork had sucked petrol and sank. I have not driven a lot as I am scared if something might blow up.
    But it is economical than my 3.2liter car. Does your car smell inside ? I mean does your clothing smell like car( petrol, exhaust fume, oil burning etc.....) I know there is a big gap around steering wheel shaft.
    This soaking of the cork plagues Paris built tractions also. I soldered a British tin float onto the 11bl sender arm. this fix could also be possible on an ID.
    Cheers Gerry

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    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by donat View Post
    My fuel gauge isn't the most reliable either and that's why I keep a log on my iphone - I put how much I've put in to fill it and at what mileage. I average around 9-10l/100km. My car has that brake fluid/old plastic smell which isn't too off-putting. My clothes smell more like nicotine than anything else.
    YES nicotine smell that`s what I get too. So I guess it is normal. I need to put more tape and insulation pads top block the air entering inside car.

  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    This soaking of the cork plagues Paris built tractions also. I soldered a British tin float onto the 11bl sender arm. this fix could also be possible on an ID.
    Thanks. I am not in any harry but I am looking for the replacement of float. Yes tin sounds like better choice. Actually I might make one. Thanks

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    With my Peugeot cap on, adjust butterfly idle screw until the idle speed rises slightly. Now screw out the idle mixture screw until the idle gets erratic. Now screw the idle mixture screw in until it almost stalls. Screw out slowly until a more even idle is achieved.
    Now re-adjust the butterfly screw until the recommended idle speed is achieved.

    The brass "screws" you see are idle, main and pump jet holders, leave them alone. The same applies to the emulsion tube/air jet holder in the throat of the carb. [Shane's post *13].

    Any bits and pieces required for your Solex 34PBIC are the same as most Peugeot. 403. 404 and early 504.

  22. #22
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeest View Post
    .

    The brass "screws" you see are idle, main and pump jet holders, leave them alone. The same applies to the emulsion tube/air jet holder in the throat of the carb. [Shane's post *13].

    .
    How then do you clean out the emulsion tube, if you do not remove the air correction jet? They accumulate rubbish in the base of the tube and this in turn affects the running mixture.
    Remove the air correction jet very carefully and then use a piece of welding wire or similar to extract the emulsion tube. While they are out check to see that the spray tower is rigid in its mount. It mounts to the base on a short brass tube. This can become loose and it has been known to rattle out and drop down into the choke tube. The car will not run in this condition. I know this because I was stuck on the top on Mount Dandenong at mid night and had to have my father in law come out and tow me home! I think he was more interested in the safety of his daughter!
    The other problem, if this is loose is that it will leak fuel and empty the float bowl while standing, and also affect the mixture while running.
    You would have to be very clumsy to break the emulsion tower. But there is always a ham-fisted somebody out there tinkering with cars.
    Cheers Gerry

  23. #23
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    How then do you clean out the emulsion tube, if you do not remove the air correction jet? They accumulate rubbish in the base of the tube and this in turn affects the running mixture.
    Remove the air correction jet very carefully and then use a piece of welding wire or similar to extract the emulsion tube. While they are out check to see that the spray tower is rigid in its mount. It mounts to the base on a short brass tube. This can become loose and it has been known to rattle out and drop down into the choke tube. The car will not run in this condition. I know this because I was stuck on the top on Mount Dandenong at mid night and had to have my father in law come out and tow me home! I think he was more interested in the safety of his daughter!
    The other problem, if this is loose is that it will leak fuel and empty the float bowl while standing, and also affect the mixture while running.
    You would have to be very clumsy to break the emulsion tower. But there is always a ham-fisted somebody out there tinkering with cars.
    I've NEVER not broken any I've tried to remove. The last one was barely touching it with my finger tip. I think the issue is they have already been overtightened in the past fracturing the small housing they sit in.

    I'd NEVER EVER try to remove one .... It almost a certainty you'll snap it off

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  24. #24
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    I've NEVER not broken any I've tried to remove. The last one was barely touching it with my finger tip. I think the issue is they have already been overtightened in the past fracturing the small housing they sit in.

    I'd NEVER EVER try to remove one .... It almost a certainty you'll snap it off

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    So you are saying do not remove any brass screws and parts? I guess I can just clean them up and blow it dry with pressurised air.

  25. #25
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Hands up those who've experienced poor running from a dirty Solex emulsion tube? Mmmm, that's what I thought.
    Now hands up those who've broken or experienced a broken emulsion tube/ air bleed jet holder? Settle down now, don't rush me!
    I managed to "splint" a broken alloy emusion tube holder with a piece of Biro outer just to get me home. 12 months later....

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