Window rubbers/seals
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  1. #1
    Member ss2115's Avatar
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    Default Window rubbers/seals

    Within the next 4 weeks or so I'm finally having the rust attended to in the Safari.
    The roof is off and I have a bloke who's going to rebuild the missing corner, do the little bit along the cant-rails/gutter (whatever you wish to call it) and a couple of minor spots on the doors.

    My question:
    Its been suggested I remove the two side windows, but the grey coloured window rubbers are very tough. They peel back without splitting or cracking, but only immediately where I pull them back - there's no supptleness left at all and the glass won't even budge.

    Does anyone know of any products to revitalise the rubber so its got some more give?
    I know auto stop leak is used sometimes for this purpose, but it also swell the rubber so I think it may be self defeating.

    I am going to take the front screen out as well in case there's any rust behind the seal or along the bottom.
    This looks reasonably straight forward but if anyone has some good tricks or tips I'd appreciate them.

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    DS23 Citroen Safari - 1974 (restoration and modifications. becoming a retirement project).
    BMW 530i M-sport Touring - 2003 (current drive car).
    Suzuki SX4 - 2009 (great car for the daughter).
    Mitsubishi ASX - 2018 (for the wife).
    Toyota Rav 4 - 1996 (Never say die. Service and tow vehicle. just keeps on going).

  2. #2
    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
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    Have a panel beater remove the side windows with thin rope.
    I'm unable to explain properly, an old school panel beater will have no trouble doing it.
    Best to warm up the rubber a little, the higher the ambient temperature the easier.

    I recall doing mine in winter, warming up the rubber, greasy rope around the lip, all the way in the groove, then gently pull, with a second person pushing or tapping with a rubber mallet to ease the glass through while the rubber is deformed.
    Similar method re-fitting, the mate who did my painting did it without me.

    If you haven't downloaded #471 in the last few years, better hop to it mate.
    It is the body bible for D series. Old but totally relevant.
    I offered for sale a printed spirax bound copy a while ago.

    Hope this helps.

    cheers,
    richo

  3. #3
    Member ss2115's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richo View Post
    Have a panel beater remove the side windows with thin rope.
    I'm unable to explain properly, an old school panel beater will have no trouble doing it.
    Best to warm up the rubber a little, the higher the ambient temperature the easier.

    I recall doing mine in winter, warming up the rubber, greasy rope around the lip, all the way in the groove, then gently pull, with a second person pushing or tapping with a rubber mallet to ease the glass through while the rubber is deformed.
    Similar method re-fitting, the mate who did my painting did it without me.

    If you haven't downloaded #471 in the last few years, better hop to it mate.
    It is the body bible for D series. Old but totally relevant.
    I offered for sale a printed spirax bound copy a while ago.

    Hope this helps.

    cheers,
    richo
    Hi Richo.

    I'm aware of the technique, but still scared of damaging rubber or glass. The rubber is the hardest I've seen. I had the garage heated to 26degrees for two days in a row and it made little difference to the softness of the rubber.
    But I haven't tried a hot air gun yet, so will give that a go. Its next on the list.

    Could you steer me to a link for this #471 please.
    Sounds just what i need.
    I have the two workshop manuals #814 for a 1974 DS, and the spare parts book #648 for 71 - 74 DS.

    Thanks Richo.
    DS23 Citroen Safari - 1974 (restoration and modifications. becoming a retirement project).
    BMW 530i M-sport Touring - 2003 (current drive car).
    Suzuki SX4 - 2009 (great car for the daughter).
    Mitsubishi ASX - 2018 (for the wife).
    Toyota Rav 4 - 1996 (Never say die. Service and tow vehicle. just keeps on going).

  4. #4
    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
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    The link is up in the sticky mate.

    If that manual is no longer on there, i have a bound pinted copy for sale. I scanned the original for the site.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    I have failed to access the Tony Jackson site pdfs, there is a message about the contents being put up again but it is ongoing, I downloaded them ages ago but thanks to several macs dying and rescuing their drives as backup storage sonewhere along the line I've totally lost them : (
    I'm after the 518 manuals!
    Steven

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