C5 2004 internal blower fault
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  1. #1
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    Default C5 2004 internal blower fault

    Its been weeks that my ac internal blower is faulty. Cant nake it work. Replaced the mosfet resistor. Today i replaced the whole 6441l2 controller. It worked for 3 seconds very very faintly with very low speed and than died. Whats is the problem? Where to look? The eco light is only on for 3 seconds only after the car alarm is engaged and then disengaged. Any sense? If i start the car - turn is off - start again without engaging the alarm- the eco light isnt working.

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    Tried to answer but system keeps telling me to refresh and or log in. Sounds like a faulty connection. So check the under bonnet fuse box mate, under cover marked "electronic" is the fuse box, plugged into the top are 3x16 position terminal blocks, Green, Grey and Black. The green one has 2 blue wires in front, these are the heater/blower wires. They carry a high amp demand using full fan. Check for over heating. These 2 blue wires are joined together under the dash, and fuse box male connectors are soldered together inside fuse box. Pull button in front to release the terminal block. Clean with chemical not scraping, A volt meter is a good investment. Voltage should read 14.5 volts with motor on and air con/heater/blower running. You could try wriggling the wires to force a connection first, to see if this is the problem.
    Last edited by shanadoo; 22nd April 2013 at 06:10 PM.

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    Thanks mate. What to you mean by blue wires ? The engine fuse box has any wires? Or just fuses and connectors? I think i am so frustrated i need some kind of picture or google picture even. So the engine fuse box with the 40 amper fuse for the air conditioning? Or other fuse box?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mudale mudale View Post
    Thanks mate. What to you mean by blue wires ? The engine fuse box has any wires? Or just fuses and connectors? I think i am so frustrated i need some kind of picture or google picture even. So the engine fuse box with the 40 amper fuse for the air conditioning? Or other fuse box?
    Sorry mate site won't let me post any more than a couple of lines. Fuse box under the bonnet, under cover marked "electronic"
    Last edited by shanadoo; 24th November 2015 at 08:54 AM.

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    got you mate. thanks a million! i can check the voltage on the wires in the connector terminal but should there voltage down there if the blower isnt working ? OR you mean that id the blower motor resistor is fine - voltage should be getting to the wires ? check the voltage on the wires connector or on the fuse box connector ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mudale mudale View Post
    got you mate. thanks a million! i can check the voltage on the wires in the connector terminal but should there voltage down there if the blower isnt working ? OR you mean that id the blower motor resistor is fine - voltage should be getting to the wires ? check the voltage on the wires connector or on the fuse box connector ?
    The wires at the fuse box connector supplies the resistor control unit, you should have voltage when the key is turned on, but it will be only battery 12v. which leads me into thinking there is a faulty terminal connection, which will display 12v with no load, but as soon as load is required, such as turning on the heater fan, the connection drops out. Depending on type of fuse box you may have to start the engine. You can always connect a light jumper lead from the battery directly into the blue wire socket [any one] with the green connector plugged back into the fuse box of course. Turn on the key and if all is right under the dash the blower will work. Again you may need to start the engine because the console unit is on a different fuse circuit.

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    Mudale mudale,

    I have just resolved my Air con problems upon attempting to replace the Mosfet in the aircon module which has been the subject of doubt in C5 Aircon problems. After spending $4.95 on a new mosfet (IPF1405N ? going by memory, price has come down) and more on the heat transfer (30% silver content) from Jaycar, after I pulled the b!@#$y thing out (it was difficult with failing eyesight and body stifness) and found my solder wick to remove the existing mosfet when to my surprise the Valeo unit (to my horror MADE IN CHINA) had 2 cold soldered connections - 2 very important connections judging by the size of the cables involved.

    So, instead of replacing the mosfet, I resoldered the 2 bodgie soldered connections, reinstalled (another difficult task to replace both screws) and fired it up.

    Result - just like new! Everything worked like it should.

    So, I whilst I was so disappointed with the Valeo unit being made in China, I thought to myself how many other faulty units is there out there?

    So, may I suggest that you check all other soldered connections on the aircon circuit board.

    Best regards,

    John

    PS: I will be preparing a separate Thread in due course when I get a chance to find out how I need organise an album for photos. I had so many arguments with Zagame over our aircon that I objected to Citroen Australia about their "commitment to Citroen Servicing"!

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    Quote Originally Posted by JAJEA View Post
    Mudale mudale,

    I have just resolved my Air con problems upon attempting to replace the Mosfet in the aircon module which has been the subject of doubt in C5 Aircon problems. After spending $4.95 on a new mosfet (IPF1405N ? going by memory, price has come down) and more on the heat transfer (30% silver content) from Jaycar, after I pulled the b!@#$y thing out (it was difficult with failing eyesight and body stifness) and found my solder wick to remove the existing mosfet when to my surprise the Valeo unit (to my horror MADE IN CHINA) had 2 cold soldered connections - 2 very important connections judging by the size of the cables involved.

    So, instead of replacing the mosfet, I resoldered the 2 bodgie soldered connections, reinstalled (another difficult task to replace both screws) and fired it up.

    Result - just like new! Everything worked like it should.

    So, I whilst I was so disappointed with the Valeo unit being made in China, I thought to myself how many other faulty units is there out there?

    So, may I suggest that you check all other soldered connections on the aircon circuit board.

    Best regards,

    John

    PS: I will be preparing a separate Thread in due course when I get a chance to find out how I need organise an album for photos. I had so many arguments with Zagame over our aircon that I objected to Citroen Australia about their "commitment to Citroen Servicing"!
    dear driend, about a year ago - the blower went of in amiddle of a work load. no AC led was on ever. i took out the module and saw the 2 power soldering on the circuit were bad - so i resoldered it and it worked like new for about a year. but my problem today is apparently different. the AC led is on for a few sec. i replaced the mosfet and the whole module. some advise up on this tread to look for the fuse box wiring - will do that.

    thanks for everbody dor the help.

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    How do i disengage these fuse box connectors? Can pull the red edge of the connector and then what to do ? Idont want to ruin the connector.... Thanks a million. I have a feeling that you are right and that the problem is in the conections of the blue wires.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mudale mudale View Post
    How do i disengage these fuse box connectors? Can pull the red edge of the connector and then what to do ? Idont want to ruin the connector.... Thanks a million. I have a feeling that you are right and that the problem is in the conections of the blue wires.
    Pull the button [ square piece with thumb relief on the front of the connector] and the terminal block should rise as it disconnects, keep pulling on the button and lift up the block, it won't come free if the button has not disengaged, just wriggle it and keep pulling the button as you lift. Any sign of overheating, like discolored wire ?. Cheers.

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    can anyone give me the mosfet p/no. as "IPF1405N?" isn't realy exact. hoping to rebuild my faulty module as the replacement one died yesterday, I wiil remove it and check the solder connections. heard from a tech that eu banned lead in solder around 2000.
    regards
    Brian
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    Quote Originally Posted by martook View Post
    can anyone give me the mosfet p/no. as "IPF1405N?" isn't realy exact. hoping to rebuild my faulty module as the replacement one died yesterday, I wiil remove it and check the solder connections. heard from a tech that eu banned lead in solder around 2000.
    regards
    Brian
    OK found the p/no. in a thread 16th feb thanks Clogzz
    ragards
    Brian
    2008 ford Mondeo 2ltr turbo diesel + 6 speed alsin g/box
    1979 cx c-matic
    1977 cx 5 speed
    2000 peugeot 306 convertable
    1978 peugeot 604 sl
    2005 c5 (wrecking)
    2003 c5 auto (wrecking)
    2001 c5 5 speed
    1960 Renault floride under restoration

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    Well guys, a year after :
    No fan blows.... But now the eco light button is ok, the fan indicators are ok, the ac seems to kick in as the rpm is rising.... But no fan at all... Where seems to be the problem please????

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    HI,
    I've got a similar problem with the aircon. Lights are on, fan indicator comes on for 10 secs or so then goes to zero.
    I've lifted up the big connector with the two blue wires as above, and those two points are somewhat burnt/molten!!

    Is it worth cleaning them or is the prob deeper?

    Thanks

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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    High resistance connections, increases the heat.

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    Addo is correct, High resistance connections, increases the heat.

    The two burnt male connectors are common [they're joined inside fuse box] they are heavy brass, as are the female connectors. And impossible to buy. You may need to solder the females onto the wiring and re cover with shinkrap. Just remove the dags, clean up both and tighten the female internal clips, if they're still serviceable. Any rate make sure they fit tightly together. Should work.

    The brass terminals have to be heavy enough to carry the mixed fruit, but being brass they're subject to oxidization and such. Don't be tempted to replace them with tin aftermarket type, they wont last diddly swat.
    Last edited by shanadoo; 23rd November 2015 at 07:54 PM.

  17. #17
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    Icon10 What is causing this?

    Quote Originally Posted by shanadoo View Post
    Addo is correct, High resistance connections, increases the heat.

    The two burnt male connectors are common [they're joined inside fuse box] they are heavy brass, as are the female connectors. And impossible to buy. You may need to solder the females onto the wiring and re cover with shinkrap. Just remove the dags, clean up both and tighten the female internal clips, if they're still serviceable. Make sure they fit tightly together. Should work.

    The 2 wires are nec to carry the amperage. they're joined together under the dash and then for some reason they branch into 2 again to fit onto the control unit.
    Hi Tony,
    the wires keep being made larger as well as the connectors, yet they are still getting too hot. I haven't had any problems like these in my C5 yet...
    In the Xantia I had, there was a continuing problem which bothered me for over a year. I nailed it in the end, although I never found a deficient earth point, it was definitely an earth problem. There were very heavy wires which delivered current to the fan. After driving for about 1/2 an hour , I would get an overheated wire or melting plastic smell in the car. Switching off the fan stopped the smell almost immediately. I tried everything to fix this, including dismantling and rebuilding the fan motor, replacing it's brushes, dismantling and rebuilding the ignition switch, ( because almost everything has to go through it at some point in the wiring), and I replaced the connectors where the wiring fits onto the actual blower motor.
    THE FINAL SOLUTION... I added a heavy gauge wire to the fans EARTH side, the BLACK wire. I connected the other end of this wire to a body point left of the glovebox, using a self tapping bolt. This new big earth point SOLVED the issue.
    Now, I never found a bad earth on the car, but there must have been one. AS soon as I fitted this large Earth wire I never had another problem with the fan wiring.
    The principle should be the same on any car. I hope this helps someone.
    Cheers..
    Last edited by George 1/8th; 23rd November 2015 at 11:01 PM.

  18. #18
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    As "addo"; High resistance connections, increases heat. So, cleaning them will certainly help but I believe there is more you can do.
    As mudale mudale and I found out, the problem comes back.

    My problem of heat built up was to the extent that the 2 plugs encompassing the the 6 terminals into the AC Controlling Module welded themselves to the module and hence I had to destroy the plugs in order to remove them from the unit/module. This was the 3rd time that the dual climate control system failed in my C5.

    What I had noticed this time was that there are 4 relatively heavy cable (2 in each plug, 2 red and 2 black) that are coupled /attached to the AC Controlling Module via 1/8"/3mm spade terminals! This does not make sense! Actual electrical connections are far too small for the current carried if in anyway the 1/8"/3mm spade terminals are loose/weakened.

    For my 4th attempt, with no plugs to re-insert into AC Controlling Module I had to individually insert each wire/terminal into the AC Controlling Module but prior to doing so, each terminal was squeezed to ensure a tight/solid connection to the 1/8"/3mm spade terminals within the the AC Controlling Module.

    So far, we have had one summer and one winter with the climate control working as it should.

    We'll see how it performs this coming summer.

    Clean terminals are essential but just as important is that the connections must be tight to ensure minimum resistance through those 1/8"/3mm spade terminals to eliminate that heat built up that I believe causes those cold soldered joints in the AC Control Module that causes all those AC / fan problems. (The 3rd failure had the same cold soldered joints in the module that I had previously re-soldered and the AC worked OK for about a year.)

    Regards,

    JAJEA





    Quote Originally Posted by T03Y View Post
    HI,
    I've got a similar problem with the aircon. Lights are on, fan indicator comes on for 10 secs or so then goes to zero.
    I've lifted up the big connector with the two blue wires as above, and those two points are somewhat burnt/molten!!

    Is it worth cleaning them or is the prob deeper?

    Thanks

  19. #19
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    george1/8th. Worth remembering, proves point, bad connect, high resistance high heat, pos or neg.

    JAJEA Exactly.

    For my own C5 2004 Hdi. I did usual wiring clean, but had to make up new female brass terminals myself [unavailable even from Molex who actually rang me after I sent enquirer Email, terminal setup is made for PSA to order. They were good enough to inquire from their agents around the world for stock holdings] Didn't tell them I only wanted 2 off.
    System was still getting hot, replaced fuse box, still hot, time to look at the control unit again, found the heat transfer gunk had been applied quite sparingly and was cracked. Something I had failed to notice. Replaced the compound using a liberal amount and stayed with the original mosfet.

    So it's been a few years now but I can run full fan on 19 deg all summer and not a sign of excessive wiring heat. As a rule I run air con constantly, 1/4-1/2 fan and 21 deg. And I'm still using the original controller. [but still touching wood firmly]

    Had something similar on Chrysler cars when they came out with computer controlled ign many decades ago. All test gear said no faults, yet they still suffered from hard starting when hot. Replacing the heat trans compound on the heat sink unit cured it.

  20. #20
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    Can one imagine any modern workshop going to the trouble?

    The time is here that the modern mechanic is a replacement mechanic guided by the diagnostic computer.


    Quote Originally Posted by shanadoo View Post
    george1/8th. Worth remembering, proves point, bad connect, high resistance high heat, pos or neg.

    JAJEA Exactly.

    For my own C5 2004 Hdi. I did usual wiring clean, but had to make up new female brass terminals myself [unavailable even from Molex who actually rang me after I sent enquirer Email, terminal setup is made for PSA to order. They were good enough to inquire from their agents around the world for stock holdings] Didn't tell them I only wanted 2 off.
    System was still getting hot, replaced fuse box, still hot, time to look at the control unit again, found the heat transfer gunk had been applied quite sparingly and was cracked. Something I had failed to notice. Replaced the compound using a liberal amount and stayed with the original mosfet.

    So it's been a few years now but I can run full fan on 19 deg all summer and not a sign of excessive wiring heat. As a rule I run air con constantly, 1/4-1/2 fan and 21 deg. And I'm still using the original controller. [but still touching wood firmly]

    Had something similar on Chrysler cars when they came out with computer controlled ign many decades ago. All test gear said no faults, yet they still suffered from hard starting when hot. Replacing the heat trans compound on the heat sink unit cured it.

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