Xsara BE4 gearbox - crank lever retaining pin removal
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  1. #1
    UFO
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    Icon4 Xsara BE4 gearbox - crank lever retaining pin removal

    I'm helping little UFO with his Xsara clutch replacement and, well, we are taking the box back out. First time out we tried to remove the crank lever so that we could withdraw the rod and replace the main box shaft oil seal thingy (!). We could not remove the crank lever as the end of the retaining pin is damaged and we cannot get a nut onto it to screw the pin out. I have tried punching it out from behind with no success. I've tried cleaning the threads with a tap but that was pointless and I cannot get a die onto it to clean the thread.

    Can anyone give me some hints as to other ways to get it out and is there an alternative to replace this pin as it seems it is a one use only item. My thought was a suitable bolt (M7 should be it) with threadlocker on it or similar - but then the hole it goes into is likely not threaded. It seems you screw an M7 bolt onto the rod and some washers and this pulls it out - or is there some sort of reverse thread thing going on?

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    And by the way I did try a search but came up with pages of seemingly unrelated stuff.
    Craig K
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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! XM Mechanic's Avatar
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    Might need a picture or two to appreciate your problem.
    Regards,

    Garth.


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  3. #3
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    OK, some pics showing threaded end view and from the rear side of the shaft. Marks are alignment marks for when it is reassembled.Xsara BE4 gearbox - crank lever retaining pin removal-p1020055.jpgXsara BE4 gearbox - crank lever retaining pin removal-p1020057.jpgXsara BE4 gearbox - crank lever retaining pin removal-p1020059.jpgXsara BE4 gearbox - crank lever retaining pin removal-p1020060.jpgXsara BE4 gearbox - crank lever retaining pin removal-p1020061.jpg

    Thanks Garth
    Craig K
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  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger
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    So, that's the clutch lever. Not sure what Xsara it is, but parts diagrams show BE3 an MA (don't think it's MA) gearboxes as having a lever and fork like that, while BE4 has a one piece fork like a D. It looks like it's just a pin and should be retained by a clip that yours is missing. It probably punches out. Apparently cotter pins 7x32 for MA and 7x48 for BE3 with a clip to secure it on the BE3. Doesn't seem to be tapered going by that description.

    Will you replace the fork bushes, release bearing and its guide tube as well as the input shaft seal? Or just the seal?
    Last edited by David S; 9th March 2013 at 11:46 PM.

  5. #5
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    Thanks David,

    The release bearing has been replaced but we could not get the guide tube out hence left the old one in place (have a new one on hand). Are you suggesting replacing the bushes too? Is that a normal service item?

    There is no sign of a clip and there was not one there. Would these cotter pins be off the shelf items at REPCO? One not that far away in Shellharbour.

    The box is stamped BE4 and is a pull lever.
    Craig K
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  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger
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    It might be a good idea to change the bushes if they appear to be worn, but otherwise perhaps leave them? Is the seal leaking? Xantia variants with that fork/arm seem to use a 7x51 pin and it looks like it has a thread on the end as yours does. Some temperature reduction spray on the pin might help and/or hot air on the lever/shaft. If the end of the pin has been mushroomed by hitting it, you might have to cut or grind that part off or drill it out. If it's going to be a permanent solution, a bolt would need the unthreaded portion with just the right diameter so there is no lost motion.
    Last edited by David S; 10th March 2013 at 10:59 AM. Reason: Remove non-workable suggestion.

  7. #7
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    I tried the local Citroen/Peugeot dealer and they have never had the pin 7x51 (p/n 2172 06) as they don't do anything pre C5s, C4s etc.

    Tried Martin at EAI and he doesn't have one.

    The bloke at the local Autopro suggested and GAVE me (no money! good bloke) a pin that is split along its length (a machine pin?) and is 42 mm long. Looks like it may do the job.

    Still have to get the other one out though! grrrrrrrr!
    Craig K
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  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger
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    The pin you were given is called a 'roll pin'. It might do the job OK, but put it in so the open side is facing up or down relative to the top face of the arm.

    What does Citroen Service show when you use the VIN to look up the clutch/gearbox parts? You may find a new pin comes with the bushes for the clutch fork.

  9. #9
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    I contacted Martin at EAI and Matt at Con Cars spares. Martin does not and never has stocked it, and Matt advised it is only available on special order ex France. The roll pin (thanks David for the prompt) is going to have to do and as you suggest with the open side up or down it will retain its strength and not flex under pressure.
    Craig K
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  10. #10
    1000+ Posts gerry freed's Avatar
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    I would be cautious about using any odd steel pin or bolt that just happens to be the right size. There is some very low grade steel about, especially in split pins and you don't want it to go sloppy through wear or break prematurely. If it is a press fit, then I would push it out with a bearing or bush remover.
    Think Global - Ride on Spheres

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Hi Craig,
    I'd be trying to knock it through with a pin punch if I could not unscrew it with vice grip pliers. A roll pin should be strong enough and tight enough to stay put.
    Cheers... George 1/8th

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    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Now there's a useful link. Many thanks.
    JohnW

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  14. #14
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    Thanks for the idea Haakon. I've just ordered a new clutch lever kit from Martin at EAI and it's on its way. No point stuffing around any more.
    Craig K
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  15. #15
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    Things like this invoke the "life is short" approach rather quickly!

  16. #16
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    I didn't want to give the FuF another chance to wave her wand.
    Craig K
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