Need help in identifying C5 HDI engine family code
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  1. #1
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Singleton NSW Australia
    Posts
    11

    Default Need help in identifying C5 HDI engine family code

    Hi Guys,

    Thanks for such a great forum. This is my first post as I usually find all the info on my c5 I need from previous posts, but this time I have run into a problem.

    I have just started to change my timing belt on my 2003 model 80th anniversary C5 with a HDI 2.0 litre but I can not work out what family this turbo diesel belongs too.

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    I have looked around this site I thought it was a DW10ATED (RHZ) but my manual I purchased shows an adjustable camshaft sprocket but mine is a solid type.

    I need a procedure for this type of engine as my manuals procedure works around the adjustable cam sprocket.

    if anyone can shed some light it would be greatly appreciated.

    Vin number VF7DCRHZE76430641
    Engine Number DYPL4001048

    Thanks Guys,

    Biteme

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    2,806

    Default Engine type ?

    Hi Biteme,
    This is your engine etc according to the Citroen service site using your VIN.
    PRODUCT TYPE CAR
    COMMERCIAL MARQUE/COMPONENT TYPE CITROEN
    VEHICLE FAMILY C5
    SILHOUETTE 5 DOOR SALOON
    TRIM LEVEL HIGH MEDIUM
    ENGINE DW10ATED TURBO DIESEL
    TRANSMISSION Auto gearbox AL4
    PAINT TYPE METALLIC PAINTWORK
    BODY COLOUR EAU LIMPIDE PAINT
    INTERIOR TRIM TYPE LEATHER L005 + CARPET ARGALI V145 "C9"
    UPHOLSTERY COLOUR "FC"
    GEARBOX (CHARACTERISTICS) Auto gearbox AL4
    ENGINE (TYPE) EW/DW


    Not sure about the actual procedure. Others may be able to help there
    jaahn

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    10,192

    Default

    You need to pin the crank and camshaft and set the adjustment by turning the crank sprocket. Sometime in late 2001, there was a change and adjustment is done via the crank sprocket, not at the cam sprocket. It's designed to move about 10 degrees to allow that and is kept tight by the damper bolt ... which is why you can't just undo the bolt to change a bad damper on these later engines. You'll also have a two piece crank damper, not the (rather more expensive) three piece one and the alternator pulley will have a one-way clutch. If the one-way clutch jams, then you'll get a lot of vibration at idle. Earlier cars with a solid alternator pulley need the three piece damper to avoid this sort of vibration. I don't think the change of adjustment and the alternator pulley necessarily happened at the same time though.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Montville
    Posts
    80

    Default

    Heres some technical bulletins that may help.
    See 024, 034, 037, 038, 044 and 045. They cover PSA diesels.

    http://www.gates.com/europe/index.cfm?location_id=6180

  5. #5
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Singleton NSW Australia
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Thanks Jaahn and David for the quick replies.

    David is the belt tension still the same as the old style adjustable cam?

  6. #6
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Singleton NSW Australia
    Posts
    11

    Default Timing belt done.

    Just finished changing my timing belt and found it to be not that bad.

    I have done a few belts on jap engines before but I was a bit concerned about this adjustable crank sprocket and how it was to be set up.

    2 x things I purchased that got me through this with ease was -

    1 - digital belt tensioner that measures in Seems ( Also Newtons, Pounds and Kilograms) AU $170.00 plus Postage. Link to eBay page - CLICK HERE

    Yes it is from china but it's accuracy appeared good as it would work smoothly and trying the gauge several times on and off the belt it came up with the same readings. The belt tension physically felt nice and firm also the engine when running now has less diesel knock at idle.

    2 - A full workshop manual from www.emanualonline.com that cost AU $18.00 ( Massive 14 Gb file and you only have a certain number of days to down load it.)

    I did get away with out using any special tooling apart from the digital gauge but it might pay me to look at getting a special tool kit for next time.

    If you are going to do this prepare to have some broken engine mounts.
    I purchased a full set of mounts delivered to my door to Australia from the UK for AU $220.00 ( Heaps cheaper than OEM in Australia)
    They have them listed on ebay. I found if you just email them with your VIN number they will quote you a price for a full set instead of buying individual ones off there ebay pages. Link to eBay page - CLICK HERE

    Both my right hand side main mount and the small dog bone next to it had both failed so as a precaution I replaced the left hand side mount and the rear roll stop as well but these only had some minor wear.

    I used a Dayco timing belt kit that had engine seals, 1 x idler pulley and 1 x tensioner pulley. Link to eBay - CLICK HERE

    I also replaced the water pump with a Repco pump that i got on special for $49.00 ( $150.00 usual price) as my pump was showing signs of seepage out the tell tale hole.

    Danny
    Last edited by Biteme; 27th March 2013 at 06:43 PM.

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    78

    Default

    Hi, I have only just seen your posts, sorry for that or I would have responded in time. If you do a search you will find a full write up of changing the cam belt on this engine in a Peugeot. I did this about a year ago.
    Well done, it is a little tricky & thanks for the links.
    Farmpug

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