Citroen ID19 front break mechanism. Need help please!
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
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    Icon14 Citroen ID19 front break mechanism. Need help please!

    Hello, everyone, hope you are having nice break.
    I have now decided to work on the car again instead of installing gutters on the out side covered area and installing a small garden shed.
    My car is really heavy- I should be able to push it but because of front break being tight I could not. I found that if I open the break shoe up by flat screw driver, car can be pushed easily. So there is a definitely something wrong there. And I noticed ratchet mechanism release lever is broken off on the driver side. However, Hand break was working fine.

    I have removed break unit from passenger side for now to see the mechanism. I found a problem- ratchet key with spring was seized because of sticky grease.

    I had trouble removing pistons but I remember Shane`s Thread. I used a bicycle pump and rubber hose to create pressure and it eventually popped out. Rubber seal and cylinder looked not too bad. I want to replace rubber seal to new one. But There is no other parts I need from that German site(not worth ordering 2 rubber rings)!

    I have some questions here.
    • There are 2 sheet of metal piece on both end of break shoe. One has a cut out on top and the other one has 2 cut out. Is there correct position for these part? Beside cut out they look identical.
    • I have removed sticky ratchet key or pin but I am not 100% sure If I put it back correctly.
    • When I install gear and large pin pushes break pad, DO I screw that brass pin all the way?
    • Ok I assembled ratchet mechanism and brass pin to study how hand break work.-----I can see that every time lever was activated( hand break was pulled), gear turns and brass pin extends. But I am thinking, how can that brass pin withdraw??? I am thinking hand break was over tightened( over extended) that is why break was tight?


    I hope you can understand what I am trying to get it here....
    I need some parts anyway so If anyone has a good LHS2 type rubber for cylinder and that ratchet gear release lever, I would like to have them As soon as possible. Thanks and happy new year to you ALL!
    P.S. I also need that plastic fan,too. I have cracked a 2nd blade when I was removing radiator.
    And now I am know it was break pads which were smoking not clutch disc.Citroen ID19 front break mechanism. Need help please!-dscf1050.jpgCitroen ID19 front break mechanism. Need help please!-dscf1051.jpgCitroen ID19 front break mechanism. Need help please!-dscf1052.jpgCitroen ID19 front break mechanism. Need help please!-dscf1053.jpgCitroen ID19 front break mechanism. Need help please!-dscf1054.jpgCitroen ID19 front break mechanism. Need help please!-dscf1055.jpgCitroen ID19 front break mechanism. Need help please!-dscf1056.jpgCitroen ID19 front break mechanism. Need help please!-dscf1058.jpgCitroen ID19 front break mechanism. Need help please!-dscf1060.jpg

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    Beware. There are two types of ratchet pawls. Don't exactly recall what the difference is as I have only read about them.
    Fans are hard to come by in my part of the world. I have one if they are hard to come by in your part. I also have a set of the felts here.
    I have nothing else for "mousetrap" brakes.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
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    You have done well to get this far Kaz! Shane's thread is very good concerning the brake calipers so if you can bring it up and follow the hints it will give the knowledge to give you some confidence.
    I've just returned from a wonderful 2000km trip to QLD coming back over the New England Highway, Driving on the speed limits all the way in the 1960 ID. These tough cars are brilliant, so hang in there!
    I have the parts you need including a good fan. One or two of the calipers are still assembled.
    On the night of the 1st Jan. I will be driving to Tullamarine Airport (domestic). I could bring the parts with me and I can meet you somehow. Ring me or email. Hang in there Michael

  4. #4
    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
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    The two types of ratchet wheel are identified by the number of teeth. The year of manufacture of the caliper body is cast in the body, this can sometimes help in identifying the caliper and its parts.

    The brake adjusting shims have different cut-outs to identify the thickness. This determines the ability of the power block to travel evenly.

    Why are you replacing the o-rings in the piston power block, are they leaking? If they are leaking it would pay to investigate the cause of the leak, usually it is not just the o-ring but corrosion behind the o-ring seat and/or wear in the piston body.

    You need the proper brake adjusting tool, not a screwdriver. The factory workshop and parts manual is invaluable.
    The bearings in the adjusting arm need to be in correct operating condition and positioned precisely.
    A complete overhaul of the caliper is recommended, then that part of the car will be as reliable as it can be.


    Hope this helps.

  5. #5
    DS
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    Fellow Frogger! DS's Avatar
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    With your camera repair skills you should have no trouble working out how to overhaul these brake units. Now they are out of the car you must do an overhaul and not just a patch up!
    You have to have the correct tool for adjusting them.
    Citroen Car Club of New South Wales member.

    My Citroen ID21F can be seen here http://www.flickr.com/photos/frontdr...7605999522616/

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richo View Post
    The two types of ratchet wheel are identified by the number of teeth. The year of manufacture of the caliper body is cast in the body, this can sometimes help in identifying the caliper and its parts.

    The brake adjusting shims have different cut-outs to identify the thickness. This determines the ability of the power block to travel evenly.

    Why are you replacing the o-rings in the piston power block, are they leaking? If they are leaking it would pay to investigate the cause of the leak, usually it is not just the o-ring but corrosion behind the o-ring seat and/or wear in the piston body.

    You need the proper brake adjusting tool, not a screwdriver. The factory workshop and parts manual is invaluable.
    The bearings in the adjusting arm need to be in correct operating condition and positioned precisely.
    A complete overhaul of the caliper is recommended, then that part of the car will be as reliable as it can be.


    Hope this helps.
    Hello, Richo Thanks for your reply! Yes I found hardened fluid behind oring. Surface of oring has no wear, I can still see the fine line in the middle from moulding. When I was applying the pressure I saw a bubble(before the clean up.. Shim position is lost now. I did not record. I have to measure the gap or guess.

    Break unit is marked 61 so I guess it was made 1961.

    One thing I do`nt understand it the ratchet mechanism. I can tighten by pulling the lever but it will not release.
    Thanks again for your advice!

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
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    I have the tool to show you how to adjust the ratchet. It looks a bit like a phillips screwdriver but the tool is required as it won't jam and break a cog as a screwdriver will. I hope you received my email. It is a good point that Richo made about the overhaul as you have gone to a lot of work to gat the calipers out. Michael

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