Gearbox swappies
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! gsmack's Avatar
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    Default Gearbox swappies

    Little bit of help needed.
    Mum recently found a puddle of green fluid under the car, the source was traced back to the steering ram, which in turn resulting in identifying that the bushes for the ram were completely shot. Ram gets leveraged off (very tight) new bushes put on blah blah... test drive time.

    Car is making a very strange kind of vibrating noise under acceleration, slightly more on the left, but it is really hard to tell what the noise is.

    So here are my questions, are all BX gearboxes interchangable? ie the BE1 and the BE3, current car is a TRI but I have a couple of TZIs in the shed, what about all the drive shafts, tie rod ends etc? (I am astounded at how often they are not cross compatible)
    I assume the gear linkages will need to be changed, are all the mounts the same and it's just a matter of swapping them out?

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    I need to get a little reassurance as I need my car in good working order before I can go on my rescue mission to QLD to save the BX wagon that is up there.

    All thoughts appreciated.
    G

  2. #2
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    It would be easiest to swap like-for-like as you won't have to root about with the lift-up gear lever.

    If it's like the 405s there are a couple of different ways the linkage rods clipped on, early to late. My '90 405 has the E-clips but I think they went to the later style captive cup shortly thereafter.

    Is it possibly just the driveshaft vibrating?

    Did the ram feed/return pipes just back out their nuts, or did they fracture?

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! gsmack's Avatar
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    The bushes were so shot that the ram was moving back and forward about an inch which was changing the tension on the pipes so it was leaking.
    Mum thinks it doesn't sound right for drive shafts

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! gsmack's Avatar
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    Also it gets worse on left hand corners under power.
    It sort of sounds like a bearing grinding noise, but the wheel bearings feel ok.

    And the really strange thing, it was fine before I jacked up the car and fixed the ram and it was 'broken' the moment I put the car down?

  5. #5
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Nasty coincidence, perhaps.

    Is the wheel slightly crooked in fitment and just brushing the caliper or handbrake cable?

    What happens if you run the wheels in gear with the front on stands and turn it lock to lock?

  6. #6
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    loose wheel nuts???

  7. #7
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    I'd be checking the driveshaft intermediate bearing as a priority .... just incase ....
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  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! gsmack's Avatar
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    @apline wheel nuts are tight, (I had hoped it was that, and probably did them up a smig too tight for my liking)
    @addo, no wheels were on straight and also checked to see if I had a buckle in my rims, nope
    @doubleChevron the bearing 'feels' fine, ie no slop up and down or sideways with my hands, or felt via the right hand wheel, any ideas of ways to test it further, without taking out the drive shaft?

    @all I have identified a strange sort of 'knock' noise that is coming from inside the left hand hub, I'm guessing that my bearing is collapsing in some shape or form, even though it doesn't show up via the scientific wheel bearing wobble test.

    So the problem in summary, there is a strange vibration/noise (the vibration shows up in the rear view mirror at about 3,000rpm) under hard straight line acceleration, doing serpentines down the road, the noise is more pronounced when one is turning to the left, as such I feel the noise is more in the left side of the car rather than the right side.
    There is some slop in my left hand tie rod, as it goes into the steering rack, this was known before the problem occurred.

    I am missing the chapter on the drive train in my workshop manual, what torque is the hub nut supposed to be done up to, because it is very very tight! 4 foot of muscle, with 60kg at the end, and the end result was a bent dowidat tyre lever (luckily mum isn't too mad about it) no necessary nut rotation

    And does anyone have any tips for pulling out the bearings to replace them, once I have the nut off?

    Thanks
    G

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts FIVEDOOR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gsmack View Post
    And does anyone have any tips for pulling out the bearings to replace them, once I have the nut off?

    G
    I cheat, my friendly mechanic does them for me for $20

  10. #10
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    You absolutely have to press the bearings in/out after removing the hub from the vehicle. They are stuck like nothing else, and frequently let go with a hellacious "BANG!". A puller won't touch them. Bearings should be the same as 405/Xantia/everything else if your driveshafts have the ramped shoulder.

    I cheated slightly and reco'd another set of hubs to swap over. This afforded the time to sandblast and paint them up properly, a totally necessary step.

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! gsmack's Avatar
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    yeah, the reco'd a separate one and put one seems like a good idea. I have one already off the car up at farm, only question it's off a TZI and it needs to go into a TRI. they have different gearboxes, are the drive shafts the same? (before I send mum off on the road trip to get it)

  12. #12
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    If you mean BE1 vs BE3 then that's a question for the 205 crowd - maybe send a message to Peter T or Adrian Wuillemin?

    There's a Pug thread still-warm that shows the early square-shouldered driveshafts vs the later type everything went to.

    Xantia hubs/carriers probably fit the BX at a pinch, I know the 406 (except coupť) and Xantia and late 405 are all the same casting, hub and bearing.

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