Disconnect carb heat
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Disconnect carb heat

    has anyone disconected those exh tubes to the carb base

    as they boil the fuel in the carb in summer

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    and are a pain , just runs too hot ,

    Ive got a thick bakelite spacer between carb and base and it still get too hot
    I think I will just take the carb up a bit on a tube or something to get it away from that stupid hot mount , it s hot start is terrible , what do you guys do

  2. #2
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    EFI? That'd solve your fuel vaporisation issues. Pretty sure PastiŮa has got his car sorted way - assuming you are speaking 2CV.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Idea

    just cut tubes and seal them , then in cold weather when the carb ices just duct in hot air from the heaters like planes do with a cable and hose into the air cleaner , solved ,

  4. #4
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    Default Efi

    Too expensive and up market for a DUCK

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    How about fitting some sort of tap inline and manually restricting the flow.
    That way you could still warm the area a bit and if you found yourself in a situation where the carb was icing up you could simply bump up the flow without needing tools.


    jo

  6. #6
    VIP Sponsor 59 Floride's Avatar
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    Renburg,

    You have an insulator between the carb and base...have you got an insulator under the mounting nuts as well, these can transfer a lot of heat to the carb...if you haven't it might be what's causing the problem..?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    How about fitting some sort of tap inline and manually restricting the flow.
    That way you could still warm the area a bit and if you found yourself in a situation where the carb was icing up you could simply bump up the flow without needing tools.

    jo
    Yes, a cable operated Heath Robinson air flap, controlled by a discarded lawnmower throttle cable and lever would be quite in keeping with the little duck!

  8. #8
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    The first GS i baught had an exhaust leak from under the carb strange ! just plugged them up with welche plugs .but im from warmer climes ,no problems in winter ,PUGS

  9. #9
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    Somehow, i cant imagine those tubes are causing vaoprisation problems at this time of the year.
    The original cooling system works very well
    I would look elsewhere in the cooling system.
    Is the fan ok, no chunks out of any blades,
    is the engine clean and free of grease,
    is the oil cooler clean,
    is the air flow free from obstuctions.
    is the air filter in good condition,
    are the barrel and cylinder head cooling fins clean and grease free?

    A 2cv in good condition should run comfortably in over 40 degree weather.

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default YES Yes

    Quote Originally Posted by 59 Floride View Post
    Renburg,

    You have an insulator between the carb and base...have you got an insulator under the mounting nuts as well, these can transfer a lot of heat to the carb...if you haven't it might be what's causing the problem..?
    Will do thanks

    And oh yes the cross over EXHAUST at the carb is needed for good exhaust efficiency reasons

    so I guess just keep it connected

    but not actually going thru the carb mount ,

    hellish hot !!!!!!!!!!in Summer no good


    Light aircraft really do have carb heat for anti icing

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default

    Unfortunatly , the old I dont have time , for mods

    its going hard tomorrow , in hot weather , its mainly good but I just expect fuel injection type starting , mmm

    also the idle mixture plays a part here , dont know what sort of part though

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Well

    I will just refine my heatsink a lot more with a different material and shape , but what material

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    Yes, a cable operated Heath Robinson air flap, controlled by a discarded lawnmower throttle cable and lever would be quite in keeping with the little duck!
    While you're at it, why not fit the Victa motor too ? Hot weather doesn't worry them & it might go faster !

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Those overheating issues are probably caused from ignition timing being to retarded, or mixture running to lean, or oil cooler blocked.
    When you set the points you can clean the oil cooler. Check the secondary jet in the carb is not full of crap, it's probably a 102, replace it with a 107 for modern fuels seems the answer.
    The plastic to replace the bakerlite would be a phenolic resin, like bakerlite. Any good plastic/perspex supply could point you in the right direction, I'd imagine you would want something that is good up to 400'C.
    If you did chop and weld the heat transfer pipes remember to cross brace the r/h exhaust manifold otherwise the alternator belt tension will pull a stud.
    Lastly I've seen these cars banging around in 40'C heat all day without these overheating issues.
    The 2Cv is more than air cooled, its also oil petrol and spark cooled!

    Harley

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