DS leaky hydro pump
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  1. #1
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    Default DS leaky hydro pump

    Hi Dees,

    i have a leak in my hydrolic pump. I think it's the front seal. Is there a kit I can buy with seals and gaskets to rebuild the pump which is otherwise working well? Can someone post a link? Or give me some ideas on how to tackle it? (For Movember I have grown an appalling thin French type moustache - looks a treat driving the D. Never shave after two bottles of wine.)

    cheers,
    dorian

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  2. #2
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    Fair chance the body has cracked if it's still the factory aluminium one. You can buy a kit with all the seals, but the parts book (get the free pdf if you don't have it already) has an exploded diagram and gives dimensions of the individual o-rings. If it's leaking at the spindle, then you might suspect the bronze sealing ring in the middle - it has an o-ring and it's face runs on one face of the bearing with spring loading. You would need more than a few spanners and screwdrivers to overhaul a pump, plus it's hardly woth the bother unles you also change the aluminium body for a steel one.

    Here is an excellent description: http://www.schaalbouw.nl/citroen/pumpoverhaul.htm

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    Mate that's very helpful again, David. I really appreicte it. So are you saying you feel it's a false economy to overhaul and I should simply buy a new pump?

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    I doubt you can buy a new pump, but you could obtain an exchange pump or buy a seal kit to overhaul what you have. If you follow the linked article and have adequate tools, it's a reasonable DIY proposition. I think the false economy would be overhauling the pump and not changing the body to a steel body. The difficulty is that you could replace the seals and then find it leaks because the body is cracked or develops a crack fairly soon. All of the usual suspects will know what's involved, so have a hunt around and decide what suits you best.

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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    I doubt you can buy a new pump, but you could obtain an exchange pump or buy a seal kit to overhaul what you have. If you follow the linked article and have adequate tools, it's a reasonable DIY proposition. I think the false economy would be overhauling the pump and not changing the body to a steel body. The difficulty is that you could replace the seals and then find it leaks because the body is cracked or develops a crack fairly soon. All of the usual suspects will know what's involved, so have a hunt around and decide what suits you best.
    David,
    Please let us know who is selling steel bodies?
    The only two sources I'm aware of is Andre Pohl in the Netherlands, and Darrin Brownhill of Citroen Classics best part of $200 if I'm not mistaken, plus freight.

    A properly rebuilt pump, new body, new bearings, o-rings, etc. is going to cost $600+
    Less than that and it won't have a new body, or new bearing. The bearing or rather any replacement is also an issue, due to supply and size solutions, which lead to further machining/sleeving.

    richo
    Last edited by richo; 6th November 2012 at 11:07 PM. Reason: more information

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    Western Hemispheres did list steel pump bodies when I looked quite some time ago and Roger Parker offers a rebuilt pump with a steel body. No doubt the parts come from a common source as with most repro parts and I'm sure others could obtain them if asked. I'm sure I'm not alone in having re-sealed a pump and then had the aluminium body crack inconveniently sometime later. So, with a good chance of needing to repeat the exercise if reusing the factory pump body, I would change the body. Maybe, others will disagree or be happy to satisfy themselves that their aluminium body is really crack free?

  7. #7
    Ashtray Polisher donat's Avatar
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    Citrotech in Holland have the steel ones:

    http://citrotech.nl/shop/shop/7-plun...andgeschakeld/

    The one on my SM came from there.
    1972 SM
    1989 BX 16 Valve

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    Very much doubt that Miles from Western Hemispheres and Roger Parker would share the same source of steel pump bodies. Both would have them made. The two businesses I named previously do not share the same pump body source, neither either is the source for Roger Parker or Miles of Western Hemispheres.

    Personally, replacing the lot is the best way, less likely a hassle later on.
    The $350 rebuild is not one which i would recommend in any case, despite their availability from the European suppliers.

  9. #9
    DS
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    I don't think a 7 piston pump is a DIY job by any stretch of the imagination. I requires a certain set of tools that most don't have in their kit and a proper understanding of not only how to strip and rebuild but how to pressure test before use in a car.

    CCCNSW had at least three lots made in steel (a few years back) and as sales tapered off I thought we sold off the remaining ones on. Who did they go to?
    Citroen Car Club of New South Wales member.

    My Citroen ID21F can be seen here http://www.flickr.com/photos/frontdr...7605999522616/

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    Go the steel valve body route!

    I overhauled my DS's HP pump recently (had the exact same leak you are describing) and soon after replacing the pump started again.... Went the steel valvebody route and the results were very satisfying to say the least!

    You won't be sorry if you go that route!!

    Cheers
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  11. #11
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    Hi Dees,
    A friend of mine in Perth will do a exchange pump for $250.00 plus freight.
    Let me know if you are interested.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Winkbul45 View Post
    Hi Dees,
    A friend of mine in Perth will do a exchange pump for $250.00 plus freight.
    Let me know if you are interested.
    Containing new bearings and a new steel body?

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    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    Citroenfan builds a top notch pump.
    He has a test bench, his prices are reasonable, and he ships worldwide.

    Email [email protected] dot com I think.

  14. #14
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by daffyduck View Post
    Citroenfan builds a top notch pump.
    He has a test bench, his prices are reasonable, and he ships worldwide.

    Email [email protected] dot com I think.
    Steve's website: http://www.citraulics.com/
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

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    I am waiting for a reply from Bob Senn. He is the only one in WA who does the jobs on Hydrolics.

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    Hi Richo,
    This is the reply Bob sent:I use the original aluminium body and check if there is no cracks. The Bearings are hard to get. I re-use the original after inspection. One can, if the races are good, fit new balls to the bearing. I did have some steel bodies, but the NSW club had run out of them, last time I asked.
    If you are still interested contact Bob at: [email protected]
    Herman

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    Quote Originally Posted by Winkbul45 View Post
    Hi Richo,
    This is the reply Bob sent:I use the original aluminium body and check if there is no cracks. The Bearings are hard to get. I re-use the original after inspection. One can, if the races are good, fit new balls to the bearing. I did have some steel bodies, but the NSW club had run out of them, last time I asked.
    If you are still interested contact Bob at: [email protected]
    Herman
    Hi Herman,
    Thanks for the update, as I've mentioned previously, I recommend against re-using the aluminium body, replacing with a steel example. The original bearings are IMPOSSIBLE to get and always have been unless you happen to have a supply of NOS bearings and shafts. I do have one remaining, bought from Europe, dunno why I'm saving it.
    There are other bearing solutions which clever folk have spent serious time and money developing; they don't sell them separately.

    These pumps are all nearly 40 years old, the majority having suffered neglect, abuse or both, not necessarily deliberately. The aluminium bodies should be replaced if you are to have a trouble free rebuild. If the pump already has been rebuilt with a steel body, then replacing the sealing rings should be fine, provided the bearings are okay.

  18. #18
    DS
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    BRAVO Richo, all clear and logical. I think the age all pumps are it is pointless re-using the aluminium body. Some I've seen have cracks so fine you need a magnifier to see it.

    Oh at its "hydraulic" guys not "hydrolic"!
    Citroen Car Club of New South Wales member.

    My Citroen ID21F can be seen here http://www.flickr.com/photos/frontdr...7605999522616/

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    Thanks Darrin,
    Crack testing (which I have access to) is still no guarantee, of how long the body will remain serviceable. I concur completely with your initial post. For anyone reading this latest post, please read DS initial contribution. #9.

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    OK Richo. Only tried to help with the little knowledge I have, but I learn a lot from reading the replies on Aussie Frogs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Winkbul45 View Post
    OK Richo. Only tried to help with the little knowledge I have, but I learn a lot from reading the replies on Aussie Frogs.
    I've PMed you. Your contribution, knowing you're trying to help, is welcome.
    Last edited by richo; 9th November 2012 at 02:26 PM. Reason: brevity

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