Road trip 1966 ID19 Citroen pickup
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Road trip 1966 ID19 Citroen pickup

    Leconte has gotten the bug...bad. So tandem trailer in tow we're heading north between Sea Lake and Ouyen, ETA Mildura around 9pm

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    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
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    Good luck and take pics.
    Seems a plethora of 1966 IDs for sale at present.

    Safe journey.

    richo

  3. #3
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    You mean I've been driving upto that sh!thole for years and there's a half decent car there I could have grabbed Enjoy Ouyen either way. If your going to stay in the area, try the Ouyen pub. It hasn't been "upgraded" since it was built. It's like a big old museum of how hotels were in back before Air con ... and even power existed ... back in about 1930

    If the car has lived up there all it's life ... .It's gonna be very rust free.... and staggeringly sunburnt and stuffed in the rubber/paint/interior deparment.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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    Ashtray Polisher donat's Avatar
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    I'm glad Leconte finally ended up getting the car we discussed months ago. According to the DS/ID Longstroke Census, it's the youngest Heidelberg ID. I've given him some ideas as to how/where to find the missing bits and to correct the wrong ones. Hope to see it in Griffith next year.

    Well done!
    Last edited by donat; 26th October 2012 at 11:00 PM. Reason: C'est Leconte!
    1972 SM
    1989 BX 16 Valve

  5. #5
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    Shane we stopped at Ouyen around 7pm, perfect time of night up here. The Commercial Hotel very imposing, I wanted to see the 1936 Roxy Theatre recently restored which is in the Main Street one block over. Ouyen has a really intact streetscape circa early 20th century, an old style dept store is for sale as are a couple shops on the Roxy side.

    Leconte and I tempted by the hotels 1930 looks but have opted for a 21st century cousin in Mildura. Sitting down with a burger and cold beer @ the Workingmans Club.

  6. #6
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J'aime la vie View Post
    Leconte has gotten the bug...bad. So tandem trailer in tow we're heading north between Sea Lake and Ouyen, ETA Mildura around 9pm
    Wow. Sea Lake. I stayed there on a job years ago - client needed a supply of brine-quality underground water to wash salt (don't ask unless you want a really long answer). I wonder if the Thisledome Motel is still going? It was when Voyager filmed Jupiter.

    Amazing where old DS/ID models live. There was a black one in Zeehan, Tasmania in 1968 when I was there as a student.
    JohnW

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  7. #7
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    Hi John pleased to report that the Thisildome motel is alive and well! Like you I spent a couple weeks staying here working in 1980s. Not going so well is a service station (or an old car yard) next door on the Melb side which is vacant. Leconte and I thought this would make an excellent "Friend to Citroen" cafe, there's about a 4 or 5 bay carport structure on one side, being open not perfect for car storage as too open. But might do or a start.


    As one with an interest in cheap Vic real estate both Sea Lake and Ouyen fit this category. 6 to 7pm on an Oct evening you might be seeing them at their best. Sea Lake or is it Birchip have been on Landline and in The Age with articles on Sea Lake High School and some of the innovative program's they have there, mainly agriculturally based. Of course if Victoria had proper high speed train like France ((not pretend, stupid ones like Bracks and Brumby commissioned) you could really open up this area. Pier Millan, Nandaly, really like the lie of the land up here.

    Back to Cit ID19 matters we think Lecontes new car was originally a Vic one, it's home in the back blocks SA is only a more lately one. While it doesn't have a name yet (a nice, sensuous "en francaise" female one?), baby you're about to come home!

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    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
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    Some of us will know the car and its history over the past 10 years or so.

    Safe journey home and look forward to the reports of progress.

    richo

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    Quote Originally Posted by donat View Post
    I'm glad Leconte finally ended up getting the car we discussed months ago. According to the DS/ID Longstroke Census, it's the youngest Heidelberg ID. I've given him some ideas as to how/where to find the missing bits and to correct the wrong ones. Hope to see it in Griffith next year.

    Well done!
    What's happening in Griffith next year?

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    1000+ Posts michaelr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnSafari View Post
    What's happening in Griffith next year?
    Cit In 2013 !

    http://www.cit-in.org/
    Michael
    Member, Citroen Car Club NSW

    DS23 Pallas 5 sp. "Francoise" , BX19TRi Auto "Jacques Dutronc" , Teardrop Trailer "The Toad", BMW R65 "Rosamund"
    In the past: Renault 750, Dauphine, R4, R8, R10, Peugeot 504 Familiale, ID 19 (x2), Safari (x2)

  11. #11
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    We're in Lyrup, it's after lunch, the ID19 looks great in white. Trolley jack to support the back of the trailer while load, she's hand winched on and ready to tie down. Winching on was like a reverse launching a new boat. Except no champagne...or none we've seen yet. Colour code 6719...the "unknown" white!

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    Default 1966 ID19 Citroen pickup !!!

    Hi
    Now that title got me in. Sorry mis-understanding
    jaahn

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    Hi Leconte / J'aime la vie. I'm not good with these private messages. I was at Mucklefest, just out of Castlemaine yesterday showing off my 1960 French ID.
    You need a spare wheel,as yours is missing. I'm sorry I wasn't about as you made your way across Victoria. I can supply a wheel if you need one. Best to call me on 0408851761

    Haven't heard from Kaz recently. He was having issues with the height correctors on his ID and injured his knee while working on the car. Hoping he is progressing.
    Having some illness in the family, I took the opportunity to drive to QLD recently and brought back a loaded trailer of ID parts. Michael

  14. #14
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    Hi Michael thanks I'm sure Leconte will be in touch very shortly.

    Meantime if anyone would like to see a few shots of the trip and the ID here's the link. There's a few of them that need sorting properly into order:

    http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...1&l=12dcf67e6b

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by IDear View Post
    Hi Leconte / J'aime la vie. I'm not good with these private messages. I was at Mucklefest, just out of Castlemaine yesterday showing off my 1960 French ID.
    You need a spare wheel,as yours is missing. I'm sorry I wasn't about as you made your way across Victoria. I can supply a wheel if you need one. Best to call me on 0408851761

    Haven't heard from Kaz recently. He was having issues with the height correctors on his ID and injured his knee while working on the car. Hoping he is progressing.
    Having some illness in the family, I took the opportunity to drive to QLD recently and brought back a loaded trailer of ID parts. Michael
    Hi Michael,
    Leconte here - we have got the car home and safely garaged, it does look a beauty as there seems to be very little or no rust in what we understand are the normal visible places - around boot, in boot, bonnet, under guards. Haven't dug deep yet, that is a job to start next (long cup day) weekend. Thanks very much for responding re the (missing) spare wheel, I will be in touch although a trip up to Castlemaine may have to wait a little bit. In the meantime here is a photo of the car in it's new home (photo credit - Je t'aime la vie):





    It is a lot longer than the GS wagon ("VB") it has displaced, must be almost a metre longer, and a bit wider in the waist as well (middle age spread?) so it is a tight fit and will have to be backed out to work on it. I have no parts with the car, so will be assembling a shopping list of damaged/missing bits with a fuller inspection.

    I can report it starts on about the third turn of the starter motor, idles well, rises, holds it height and drives OK. It is running on pure castor oil according to Ken, the prior owner. Gears grate (a lot) in first and reverse (is there synchro? is it worn? are questions to come) and the brakes "work" although grabby and judder right now, but haven't been exercised in quite a while by all accounts. Some lights not working, horn is OK, don't know yet where the wiper button is. I've only had 5 minutes in it since the purchase and after returning late yesterday afternoon. So there is much to discover and ponder at this early stage.

    My firm intention is to get it up to roadworthy stage and onto club plates as a first priority. Change oils, clean and check under bonnet. That is work for a while without going further. Will possibly start a "restoration" thread although initial progress will be slow due to time commitments. That's it for now.

    Cheers, Leconte

  16. #16
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    Hi again - note to Andrew - yes, it is the car from Ken in SA that you previously owned. Thanks for getting in touch and I would love to get any photos, information, prior history that is out there. I will send you my email by PM. Same to Richo - I am very grateful for info either through the forum here or by PM.

    Regards,
    Leconte

  17. #17
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leconte View Post
    Hi Michael,
    Leconte here - we have got the car home and safely garaged, it does look a beauty as there seems to be very little or no rust in what we understand are the normal visible places - around boot, in boot, bonnet, under guards. Haven't dug deep yet, that is a job to start next (long cup day) weekend. Thanks very much for responding re the (missing) spare wheel, I will be in touch although a trip up to Castlemaine may have to wait a little bit. In the meantime here is a photo of the car in it's new home (photo credit - Je t'aime la vie):





    It is a lot longer than the GS wagon ("VB") it has displaced, must be almost a metre longer, and a bit wider in the waist as well (middle age spread?) so it is a tight fit and will have to be backed out to work on it. I have no parts with the car, so will be assembling a shopping list of damaged/missing bits with a fuller inspection.

    I can report it starts on about the third turn of the starter motor, idles well, rises, holds it height and drives OK. It is running on pure castor oil according to Ken, the prior owner. Gears grate (a lot) in first and reverse (is there synchro? is it worn? are questions to come) and the brakes "work" although grabby and judder right now, but haven't been exercised in quite a while by all accounts. Some lights not working, horn is OK, don't know yet where the wiper button is. I've only had 5 minutes in it since the purchase and after returning late yesterday afternoon. So there is much to discover and ponder at this early stage.

    My firm intention is to get it up to roadworthy stage and onto club plates as a first priority. Change oils, clean and check under bonnet. That is work for a while without going further. Will possibly start a "restoration" thread although initial progress will be slow due to time commitments. That's it for now.

    Cheers, Leconte
    1st and reverse won't have a synchro. Check the clutch isn't dragging, a rare crunch ins't really avoidable, especially if you insist trying to engage the gears with the car rolling (you'll need to double clutch into first). I think the clutch will be dragging.

    what may help is touching 2nd before you grab first. I've found that is quite a few old cars.

    seeya,
    Shane l.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  18. #18
    Ashtray Polisher donat's Avatar
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    Running on castor oil and nothing but???
    1972 SM
    1989 BX 16 Valve

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by donat View Post
    Running on castor oil and nothing but???
    Hi Donat,

    Castor oil is the hydraulic fluid in use. No brake fluid in mix, just pure castor oil I was told. I recall threads about this, will do some research.

    Shane - I did get into first, the first time, changed to second, after that could not get back into first from a stop. However it was just a 3 minute drive up the road and back to turn it around and go into the garage. Double clutch didn't work, but it was too late on Sunday to investigate further. Ken said he had put a new clutch cable on it during his ownership so perhaps it needs some adjustment.

    - Leconte

  20. #20
    Ashtray Polisher donat's Avatar
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    Being a '66, it should have a 1st gear synchro unless someone's fitted an early (first front) ID box at some point.

    As for the mixture, 5-10% castor oil with Dot 4 will do the trick.
    1972 SM
    1989 BX 16 Valve

  21. #21
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    "And another early ID". Hi Leconte. As I said earlier, on Sunday I was at Mucklefest, here near Castlemaine, and what should turn up, a Heidelberg 1964 ID with a For Sale sign on it. Too good to pass up.
    It only has a few days rego left so I've booked it in for a roadworthy but don't give it much of a chance. When I give it a good inspection the roadworthy might have to be cancelled to a later date as the car has a "few" leaks.
    Like yours, it has been running on canola oil and this can affect the rubbers on some cars. The ID's fair better than DS"s with canola oil.
    I'm clearing the hoist so I can have a good look. I'll probably drain the oil and flush it with metho a few times and as Donat mentioned, put in Dot 4 Brake Fluid and add 10% castor oil.
    WAIT ON! Your ID is running on castor oil, not canola. I've read on this site that the more castor oil that is mixed with brake fluid, the thicker (gluggier) it gets. You won't have the same problem that canola presents. You'd probably be best flushing the castor oil out and substituting it with the Dot 4 Brake Fluid mix. "It's all Fun" Michael

  22. #22
    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by donat View Post

    As for the mixture, 5-10% castor oil with Dot 4 will do the trick.
    Please be careful before giving advice.

    !0% Castor oil in Victoria will certainly gum the system up in the cooler months. Guaranteed.

    A maximum of 5% to a minimum of 3-2% would be better. The Castor Oil is only to provide lubricity.

    BP grade from a chemist if you don't mind paying, use the Yellow Pages or Google for a cheaper long term supply. I bought a large quantity in Melbourne some years ago from a place in Burke Road Hawthorn? for less than $20.

  23. #23
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IDear View Post
    "And another early ID". Hi Leconte. As I said earlier, on Sunday I was at Mucklefest, here near Castlemaine, and what should turn up, a Heidelberg 1964 ID with a For Sale sign on it. Too good to pass up.
    It only has a few days rego left so I've booked it in for a roadworthy but don't give it much of a chance. When I give it a good inspection the roadworthy might have to be cancelled to a later date as the car has a "few" leaks.
    Like yours, it has been running on canola oil and this can affect the rubbers on some cars. The ID's fair better than DS"s with canola oil.
    I'm clearing the hoist so I can have a good look. I'll probably drain the oil and flush it with metho a few times and as Donat mentioned, put in Dot 4 Brake Fluid and add 10% castor oil.
    WAIT ON! Your ID is running on castor oil, not canola. I've read on this site that the more castor oil that is mixed with brake fluid, the thicker (gluggier) it gets. You won't have the same problem that canola presents. You'd probably be best flushing the castor oil out and substituting it with the Dot 4 Brake Fluid mix. "It's all Fun" Michael
    Was that the really tidy looking ID19 I forced into the gravel on the side of the road when it was leaving ......... ( talk about feeling bad, single lane road and I make all these immaculate cars head into the gravel so I can pass ). You'll have picked me as I'm probably the only person there that had a trailer on.

    seeya
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  24. #24
    Ashtray Polisher donat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richo View Post
    Please be careful before giving advice.

    !0% Castor oil in Victoria will certainly gum the system up in the cooler months. Guaranteed.

    A maximum of 5% to a minimum of 3-2% would be better. The Castor Oil is only to provide lubricity.

    BP grade from a chemist if you don't mind paying, use the Yellow Pages or Google for a cheaper long term supply. I bought a large quantity in Melbourne some years ago from a place in Burke Road Hawthorn? for less than $20.
    I was going off this link which I found useful regarding my own car:

    http://citroen.cappyfabrics.com/fluid.html

    When they say "colder climates" I didn't factor in Victoria.

    My apologies.
    1972 SM
    1989 BX 16 Valve

  25. #25
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
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    The site donat refers to is by Mark Bardenwerper, who did a lot of work trying to replicate LHS2 by working with an industrial chemist to measure the viscosity at different temperatures of brake fluid and Castor oil. He came up with a figure of about 9% Castor oil. That might be fine in theory, but I think it is high in practice.

    I have experienced the effects of oxidation in a mix of brake fluid and about 10% castor oil. It was a May morning in Bendigo. I was going around a corner in second gear on my way to work in my DS19, but could not get 3rd as I accelerated (sorry, gathered momentum) out of the corner. Turns out the hydraulic reservoir was full of gummy muck. I scraped it out with a stick as best I could and added some pure brake fluid. It got me home, where I cleaned out the system thoroughly.

    Now I use no more than 5% Castor oil. I also add a little tablet of antioxidant occasionally, given to me by a friend who is an industrial chemist. I use veterinary grade Castor oil, from a produce merchant, reasoning that the physiology of a horse is similar to that of a human. BP means British Pharmacopea, which is code for fit for use in humans. I imagine the physiology of a DS would not allow it to tell the difference between horse Castor oil and human Castor oil. I also imagine that if any car can be said to have a physiology it would be a DS.

    Roger

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