DS engine oil.
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Thread: DS engine oil.

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default DS engine oil.

    Normal 20/50 or synthetic oil for a DS?

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  2. #2
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    N.A.O.T!

    You won't hurt it with a synthetic oil. Some will argue it's overspending.

  3. #3
    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
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    As oil changes should really be carried out on completion of each 5,000ks or once a year, whichever event comes first, a 20/50 mutigrade of a type which is SG rated (about the lowest rating these days) is sufficient.
    Change the filter at least once a year, INCLUDING renewing the sealing gasket and o-rings.

    If you don't know the history of the engine and how the oil has been changed, then this recommendation is adequate.

    As someone who believes that oil is the cheapest component of the D engine, given the amount of time most of them sit idle, I change oil twice a year and every 3,000ks.

    The oil pump, rocker gear, oil ways, piston rings, method of engine lubrication and technogies used would see a 20/50 Multigrade oil helping rather than hindering, despite the modern engine oil usual requirements of synthetics. D technology, materials and metallurgy are bordering on 70+ years old.

    Hope this helps.

  4. #4
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    I've been running my Renault R8 engine on the bog standard Shell Helix (yellow-orange container) for at least 20 years now. Like Richo, I change it annually at least, regardless of km, with a filter change.

    No sign of problems. The driver is ageing more than the car as far as I can tell.
    JohnW

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  5. #5
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    CitroŽn Tragic UFO's Avatar
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    Please ensure when you change the filter that you align the triangles as you bolt the filter holder back in. If you don't your engine will seize very quickly. One triangle is stamped on the holder and one on the sump. They align "roughly" not precisely.
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Thank you all it's been a great help, as usual

  7. #7
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
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    While we are offering oil changing advice for Dees, if you install any rubber seals make sure you remove the old one. Even if you think it isn't there, it probably is.

    Roger

    PS getting oil all down your arm is not optional, it is compulsory.

  8. #8
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    Good advice. Thanks guys. Wondering the same thing myself. Is the oil filter compulsory change with each oil change? And what about fuel and air filter?

  9. #9
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    Depends on the model. EFI has a paper air filter and a filter in the right sill and expensive. Carby cars usually has an inexpensive inline filter near the carb and an oil bath air filter that can be cleaned.

    You may want to use an oil with more anti-wear additives than the latest API oil standards permit. It's been covered before, but companies like Penrite do sell such oils.
    Last edited by David S; 23rd October 2012 at 11:27 AM.

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! Ronhic's Avatar
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    Whilst $15 for a fuel filter may seem on the expensive side, it is still one of the cheapest things you can put on any car.

    Try fixing your fuel injection system for $15 if it gets clogged with a stray bit of fuel tank gunk.

  11. #11
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dorian View Post
    Good advice. Thanks guys. Wondering the same thing myself. Is the oil filter compulsory change with each oil change? And what about fuel and air filter?
    If you have a good engine in anything like a DS, my argument would be "why would you NOT change the oil filter annually"?
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  12. #12
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    Ah yes, the inline fuel filter.

    I used to have an inline filter in the line between the pump and the carburettor. On a hot summers day my DS23 would suffer vapour lock while ascending the Clyde Mountain. I reckoned the reason was that the filter held a significant volume of fuel, so increasing the detent time in the fuel line thus allowing greater exposure to the high temperatures in the engine bay. I removed the filter and wrapped any exposed fuel line that I could reach in aluminium foil. Seemed to fix the problem.

    Cheers

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