aussiefrogs - Blogs http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php aussiefrogs , Froggy Forum! bulletin board is a medium for all French car owners in Australia (and the rest of the world) to discuss their French Marque, Help others to Share Knowledge with like minded enthusiasts. Forum allows registered members to also advertise their car/parts for sale or wanted FREE. List of French car Clubs and Contact information to facilitate and encourage participation en Thu, 08 Jan 2009 17:04:28 GMT vBulletin 750 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/images/misc/rss.jpg aussiefrogs - Blogs http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php Surging Puegeot 307 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=18 Sat, 13 Dec 2008 03:54:26 GMT :cry:We have a 2 litre 307 Hatch common rail diesel 2007 model. Great car with all the good bits BUT develops a surge at low speeds up to 50kph. the vehicle is under warranty and the dealer is unable to correct it. Anybody have any ideas as to why? Most annoying to drive as it wants to go then... :cry:We have a 2 litre 307 Hatch common rail diesel 2007 model. Great car with all the good bits BUT develops a surge at low speeds up to 50kph. the vehicle is under warranty and the dealer is unable to correct it. Anybody have any ideas as to why? Most annoying to drive as it wants to go then drops revs & picks up again. this is a town car and only does short trips. ]]> Bushy http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=18 peugeot 306 convertible http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=17 Fri, 24 Oct 2008 11:28:22 GMT I am wrecking this vehicle It is a 1999 model, I bought it as a repairable and used some parts of it to fix another 306 that I have. It has heavy front end damage I am wrecking this vehicle
It is a 1999 model, I bought it as a repairable and used some parts of it to fix another 306 that I have. It has heavy front end damage ]]> bretts403 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=17 RHF seat belt pre tensioner http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=16 Thu, 11 Sep 2008 07:51:58 GMT Looking for a RHF seat belt pre tensioner for a 2002 Clio Sport naturesharvest@bigpond.com Looking for a RHF seat belt pre tensioner for a 2002 Clio Sport naturesharvest@bigpond.com ]]> Sport http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=16 need my 1994 Renault 19RT auto fixed http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=15 Wed, 03 Sep 2008 07:06:19 GMT Please can someone help me find someone who can fix my Renault 19 at a fair price in Adelaide SA. Car places here are so expensive. Where can I find the parts at a good price. Is there anyone out there who can help? Thanks. Philippe Please can someone help me find someone who can fix my Renault 19 at a fair price in Adelaide SA. Car places here are so expensive. Where can I find the parts at a good price. Is there anyone out there who can help? Thanks.
Philippe ]]> philippe1975 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=15 Mechanical Therapy - Another Mi16 evaporates http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=13 Fri, 15 Aug 2008 14:11:48 GMT I thought I would document the unfortunate demise of a 1989 405 Mi16. My normal 1990 Mi16 had been making odd noises sometimes when turning that seemed to be emanating from the steering rack. I knew that my LH boot was in numerous pieces and had not been providing any protection to the ram since... I thought I would document the unfortunate demise of a 1989 405 Mi16.
My normal 1990 Mi16 had been making odd noises sometimes when turning that seemed to be emanating from the steering rack. I knew that my LH boot was in numerous pieces and had not been providing any protection to the ram since I bought the car. I figured that to pull it off, replace all the seals etc and re-installing it would take me at least a week - and I need the car to commute to the bus station. I hatched a cunning plan to buy a suitable second hand steering rack, refurbish it as needed - and then do a changeout over a weekend. I posted a wanted ad and pretty soon I got 3 offers - and then for some reason I looked up ManheimFowles auction site and saw a very sad and lonely Mi16, but it looked pretty good - with only minor panel damage to the front right panel and the RHS of the bumper.
I was intending to go along to bid, but work got seriously busy (kinda sucks how work interferes with your car habit - except for paying the bills!) so I rang up and got registered. Ocne registered I find out that my firewall at work won't let the auction website function! but fortunately it will let you bid blind. I headed off to a meeting with an important client about a fasttrack job - but I was totally distracted the whole time. I eventually managed to escape, and then rush out to see how I did. Somehow I managed to pick it up for $400, however by the time I finished paying the buyers fee, simulcast fee etc it became $493. I saw on theri website that they could organise transport, so I rang up and by transport theuy mean interstate transport - but the receptionist told me that there was a guy who used to work there who had a tilt-tray and did I want his number? I rang him at 4:00 PM, and he was most apologetic that he couldn't deliver it that day! I organised him for the next day, and everything went to plan and my 'new' car arrived the next day.

I had a look over it in the dark, and it looked quite reasonable. It had the power windows in the back and the sunroof - I have never seen so many of those Peugeot window rocker switches in my life, they are everywhere - overhead, in the doors, heaps on the centre console. I played with the windows, and most of the switches work, but the sunroof was a bit sluggish.

I had a peek in the radiator and the water level looked low, but enough for a bit of running around.
The front right tyre was a bit of a mess. The tread had parted company with the outside sidewall. I hop in to start it and the battery is almost dead - so I hook up the carger and give it an hours or so, but it still won't start. I give up and jump start it with the other Mi16. It started easily, and the short drive into the back yard showed that the gear linkages are heaps better than my existing car. (Is that a BE1 thing?) I eventaully maneouvered the car around and got it into the shed. Once I had shut it down, then I decide I want to try the sunroof with the motor running to see if it was just low voltage - so I tried to start it but the battery hadn't picked up enough juice. I left the charger on overnight - and the next night it started up ok, but the sunroof was still a bit sluggish.

In the daylight I was able to inspect the damage, and I was amazed that it had been written off - it didn't have any visable damage to the front right suspension. I started to pull the car apart from the front, and with the bumper and radiators off, I could see that the right hand side had been pushed back about 40 mm. I also noticed that when I tried to drain the radiator - I turned the tap and nothing came out. A plastic indexing pin (or something like that) had split and the radiator was completely bare. I am very glad that I didn't run the motor for too long!

I have made some progress with the engine bay, with the radiators, inlet manifold and battery tray out. Next step is to get the whole car out so I can pull the wheels off and get the seats and cards and LHS mirror off, before pushing it back into the shed again.

Anyhow, the whole point of this blog is to post the pictures of it coming apart, so that if I ever pull my normal Mi16 apart, I might have some chance of getting it back together in the correct order! If anyone wants specific pics of how something looks like, or how to get it apart then let me know and I will try to post it here.



Dave picked up the wheels yesterday, and I have got the seats and door cards out. Now I understand whey wreckers charge what they do for parts - it takes so much time to pull these things apart!

How to:

Remove front seats:
Slide the seats forward and undo the rear mounting bolts (4 per seat, and you need a torx key) Then slide the seat back and release the front screw from the plastic cover. Then you can reach in and undo the front screw. The other side doesn't need the cover released. (You could probably release the other side without undoing the cover screw, but it makes it easier.)
Then undo the seat belt anchor point and the seats can be removed.

Remove rear seats:
To remove the lower part, just wiggle the edges in and they will release. The upper part needs the boot access opening removed and then again some more jiggling.

Time for some photos of the deconstruction:










]]> Volumex http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=13 Custom Sub Box for sale http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=12 Thu, 07 Aug 2008 02:46:09 GMT I have recently sold my Peugeot 307. I had a custom sub box made for it and kept this when i sold it. It fits nicely in the left hand side of the boot and looks like it was meant to be there. I have a couple of photos if anyone is interested? I have recently sold my Peugeot 307. I had a custom sub box made for it and kept this when i sold it. It fits nicely in the left hand side of the boot and looks like it was meant to be there. I have a couple of photos if anyone is interested? ]]> Yld307 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=12 504 Pug for sale http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=11 Thu, 24 Jul 2008 07:16:25 GMT 1981 Pug 504 Wagon.
Straight body, no rust, driven daily until tail shaft seized approx 12 months ago.

I am shifting house so must find the Pug a good home. Too good to scrap.

What offers?

Also homes for three 604's. Any interest? ]]> dancer http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=11 Peugeot 306 1.8xt Manual http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=10 Mon, 14 Jul 2008 01:04:30 GMT Hey all, Big Noob here. Im in the market for a nice peugeot 306. It has a blown head gasket which is the only downfall. I want to get the car obviously but dont want to buy a dud. If anyone could tell me some info on what they know about the car in the way of the gasket and repair... Hey all, Big Noob here.

Im in the market for a nice peugeot 306. It has a blown head gasket which is the only downfall.

I want to get the car obviously but dont want to buy a dud.

If anyone could tell me some info on what they know about the car in the way of the gasket and repair being more than the acutal price whic is around $2K.

Cheers! Lee... ]]> raekwon_3 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=10 peugeot 405 mi16 new amp speaker noise!! http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=9 Thu, 10 Jul 2008 04:12:36 GMT hi ive just fitted a amp and sub to my car but am getting engine noise through the speakers i ran power cable down 1 side of car and rca cable down the other what else can i do to stop the noise? any tips would be great thanks darren hi ive just fitted a amp and sub to my car but am getting engine noise through the speakers i ran power cable down 1 side of car and rca cable down the other what else can i do to stop the noise?
any tips would be great
thanks darren ]]> minkymoe http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=9 Croak !!! http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=8 Tue, 08 Jul 2008 08:49:27 GMT Hi fellow froggies.

I don't have French car (non Voiture de Francais?)
I have a LOTUS EUROPA S2 which has a Renault 807 engine and Renault transaxle.

and What is that like?

IT ROX BABY !!!

It has extractors, twin 42DCOE Webers, a Gordini grind cam (so I'm told)....it sounds awesome.

What Iam after is a Renault Alpine alloy rocker cover...the one with the leter "A" and the 4 bars...any ideas ??:evil: ]]> LOTI54 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=8 Test of who can see this blog http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=7 Sun, 06 Jul 2008 22:51:59 GMT Please advise if you can read this blog or even post to it. Thanks Please advise if you can read this blog or even post to it.

Thanks ]]> UFO http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=7 vBulletin Blog http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=6 Fri, 04 Jul 2008 22:55:42 GMT *vBulletin Blog Features* vBulletin Blog is a fully-featured blogging add-on that enables community members to create their very own online blogs within vBulletin. Giving members a place to post thoughts, ideas and musings will keep users returning to the community again and again, and... vBulletin Blog Features vBulletin Blog is a fully-featured blogging add-on that enables community members to create their very own online blogs within vBulletin. Giving members a place to post thoughts, ideas and musings will keep users returning to the community again and again, and advanced administration features allow forum owners and moderators to keep control and integrate Blog into vBulletin’s existing look and feel.

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It is a feature-rich blog application, with support for fully formatted WYSIWYG posts, attachments, comments, trackbacks and pingbacks, draft posts and categories, as well as seamless integration with the overall vBulletin system. Blog Home Page

Available via a single click from any vBulletin page, the blog home page aggregates activity from all member blogs into a single page – with information about the most recent and highest rated blog posts, recent comments, a featured blog post (selected by the administrator or at random), full support for browsing posts by date and overall blogging statistics. Syndication and Subscriptions

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]]> gibgib http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=6 Citroen GS - Engine Oil Leaks http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=5 Fri, 04 Jul 2008 22:20:18 GMT GS engines run at such high oil pressure. I measure 120 PSI on a cold engine at 2000RPM & oil pressure @ 70 deg C is still 80 - 90 PSI at 60Km (about 2500 RPM).

There are also so many places for oil to leak from.
I have yet to see a GS that doesn't at least leave a few spots.

Some of the main problem areas I found have been due to a different technique of diagnosis. Oil leaks really annoy me so I tried this:

Simply remove the engine & sit it on some stable metal racking supported on say, some bricks.
Take off as much of the tinware as possible inc. the fan cowling but refit the fan & front nut. I noticed that some engines don't have a belt stay guide on the crankshaft so this may be important!

Use a container of fuel with a fuel hose (get it as far away as possible) & connect to the fuel pump.
Remove the battery & coil from the car & connect so as to activate coil/ dizzy.

If I've remembered everything, you should be able to crank start the engine now.

I forgot to tell you how noisey this is. I first did this in a Noosa residential area after being failed for rego. So be sure to do it at 7am on a Sunday morning.

If it's misfiring you may find it dancing around a bit so stay with it. After 10 minutes it should be getting pretty warm (no cooling) so start to look for leaks.

Look at the front & rear crank seals. The newer seal types (with spring) can inadvertantly be back to front, ie front (clockwise) in the rear & will tend to throw the oil out a bit. If in doubt just replace, especially the bell housing end one (hard to get at in the car!).

Pay attention to the oil return pipes under each head, Although there's no pressure here, the buggers seem to leak if those "O" rings aren't an "O"!

In my first case I found the dipstick to be causing most of my grief. The nut holding the whole sharbang in was loose. I knew it was loose when it was in the car but didn't think it would be a major reason for failing rego.

The cam shaft seals always (even brand new ones) leak a drip when the engine has stopped. Just have to live with that one. I've never had a leaking oil cooler or the seals associated.

I always use that aviation black gasket goo (with the little paintbrush in the lid) on both sides of all the tappet cover gaskets & have never had trouble with them.
Can't say I've had any leaks from the rocker shafts (can't remember what you call them, the shafts that the tappets ride on) seals (the alum ones).

This is probably a bit dangerous but it worked for me & I had about 6 months of minimal oil leaks before it went back to it's old ways. Good thing about QLD is you only need to prove roadworthiness for 30 minutes & then she's right for life if it doesn't change hands ]]> gibgib http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=5 Citroen Berlingo Sub Woofer enclosures http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=4 Fri, 04 Jul 2008 22:19:13 GMT I have been meaning to post this for a while.
I had lost the plans but found them today after doing a clean up
This plan will suit all Berlingo's until 2008.

Last year I decided to put to use 2X 8 inch "free air" Kicker sub woofers that were sitting in the cupboard.

I wanted them in the Berlingo but out of the way. As bass is non directional the obvious place to put them is behind/ under the seat.

To get the required 30 litres to suit the woofers in a vented box I also made them a wedge shape. This also faced the woofers up more & after I made a start I also decided to move the port to the front, shown on the side on the plans. Note the port need to be installed it's own diameter in from the side, in this case 75mm from top & side.

All measurements on the plan are outside dimensions. If you go bigger you will have problems. I didn't allow for the carpet so it was a bit squashy getting them in. I also used 19mm MDF which is a bit thin for a sub over 100watts but being little on space:ccvolume... :confused:

Both front seats need to be removed completely (quite easy) & the jack mount behind the driver's seat needs to come off. Obviously you also need an amplifier & perhaps a new head unit with sub out.

Plans:


Cutting/ Building:


Nearly Finished:


Complete!:




I haven't photographed the finished product in the van as yet so I'll do that soon.


Along with the 2 ported 8inch 'boom" drivers, I also added a sealed enclosure (commercially built) with a 10inch JL Audio sub for that accurate thud.
The vented subs are powered by a Sony 200W rms X2 Amplifier (old school) & the 10 inch is off a Kicker 4 Channel, 2 channels bridged to give 100w rms. the other 2 channels are run into Sony splits - doors & dash. All Sub frequencies crossed at 65Hz are fed into the appropriate sub amp.







]]> gibgib http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=4 <![CDATA[Citroen 2CV 123 EVOLUTIF ignition installation, adjustment & initial impressions]]> http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=3 Fri, 04 Jul 2008 22:16:04 GMT Fitted 123 Evolutif to our 2CV today See also, the 2CV Club Australia site (http://www.2cvclubaustralia.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?p=272#272) I purchased the 123 Evolutif this week from Ted at www.123ignition.com.au (http://www.123ignition.com.au/) This is a revised version of the 123... Fitted 123 Evolutif to our 2CV today

See also, the 2CV Club Australia site


I purchased the 123 Evolutif this week from Ted at www.123ignition.com.au
This is a revised version of the 123 Blue.

It features:
vacuum advance
warm up advance (temp sensor)
over-heat retard (temp sensor)
spark balancing (?)
dwell balancing
current timeout
idle speed control
offers 3 sets of advance curves (adjustable)

Had the day off today so I planned to fit the electronic ignition this afternoon with enough time to tune the engine to max power using the power curves.
This was achieved comfortably in around 4 hours.

Couple of things prompted 1 123 installation at this time.
The points needed attention, & while the carby was out last time I noted the manifold block had cracks in it - right through. This was causing idle to be unstable.
The vacuum modified block used with the vacuum advance setup kills 2 birds with 6 or 7 stones as the saying goes.

This is more of an installation proceedure/ process post with some of my findings & opinions.

Here is a picture of the 123 Evolutif vacuum advance unit & the spark plugs I also installed today.


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The manifold block that replaces the existing one. It allows the vacuum hose to be connected easily to the set up without having to drill holes & tap threads.


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Remove all the connections to the carby. Undo the tricky 12mm headed nuts (1 is hard to get at) & remove carby.
Clean manifold & bottom of carby.
I smeared selastic on manifold & vacuum plate to ensure a good seal. Note vacuum connection at rear.


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Carby back on, nuts nipped up diagonals, then tightened diagonals. Excess selastic wiped along side of block, carby, & manifold. It won't leak now!


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Remove the fan grille, fan & rubber shield to reveal points box.
Remove the 3 screws holding the cover onto the points box. Disconnect the wire to the points & the neg at the coil & put them to the side.


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Undo the 2X 11mm headed bolts. The whole points box should come away with a bit of help. The metal protector plate behind just sits there & removes easily.
You are now looking at the centifugal advance mech!


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Next you need to remove the circlip on the end of the camshaft. I used 2 small nails. Once this is removed the whole lots comes out. All this is not required for electronic ignition.


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Clean the area up & install the 2 magnets supplied over the 2 spindles. They are a very neat fit & hold there without any other attention.


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Fit 123 ignition with divet to the bottom using the 2X 11mm head bolts that held the old points box in. Wire it in as per instruction routing wires the same way as the old points wire.


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Time the engine using the 6mm rod & LED on the front of 123 ignition & tighten 11mm bolts when set correctly.
This picture shows the vacuum hose fitted & the 5mm allen keyed hexagon plug removed. this gives access to the 16 position switch.


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From here I left the hexagon plug out, set switch to position 1 & immediately refitted fan for the purpose of easy removal for tuning on Bruce Hwy.
In Australia, the only curves I can see useful to us is position 1 - 5:
1 20 deg/3100
2 22 deg/3100
3 24 deg/3100
4 26 deg/3100
5 28 deg/3100

Instructions say to measure maximum speed, go to next setting if no knocking is heard, go back one if knocking is heard etc.
I am using BP Ultimate 98 RON fuel. I always use 98 RON fuel in this little duck.

Course was between two exits on the Bruce Hwy about 2.2k's apart.

On setting 1, I achieved 100k up a pretty decent incline before I took my retune exit (National Park car park).
I removed the fan to gain access to the switch. You need a pretty small tweaking type flat head screwdriver. I went from 1 to 3.
Next test I achieved 110k on the same hill, no knocking.

Fan out, went to 4. Accidently spun the wheels on the way out of car park, on gravel yes but more eager than normal!
Very slight speed increase, no knocking.

Went to 5, last one possible.
Same hill 115k now. I'd say that's it. Still no knocking.

Needed to adjust the mixture to get it to idle nice & adjusted idle screw up as well.
It idles really sweet & even. It definitely has more power. I can hold onto 3rd gear where I'd be looking for 2nd with the standard points so torque must be better too.

Time will tell of course but for now, this duck has entered the 21st century in the ignatious department. ]]> gibgib http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/blog.php?b=3